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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires > Suspension

Suspension Suspension

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  #1  
Old 12-30-2009, 08:51 PM
02ENVOYMAZ 02ENVOYMAZ is offline
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2002 GMC Envoy SLE
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Torque Specs Needed

Hi,

I've encountered the eventual CV axle boot seepage from lifting the Envoy, I have a new wheel bearing and 2 Cardone Axle shafts to install tomorrow, just wondering the torque specs on the Axle Nut and the Hub assembly bolts?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 12-30-2009, 09:04 PM
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hatchet669 hatchet669 is offline
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ya know i got the same things.. bt i dont have my book with me for all the specs... sure someone will help ya...
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:26 PM
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the roadie the roadie is offline
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103 ft-pounds for the axle nut, and 77 for the hub bearing bolts.

Note the Cardone shafts (at least the ones I bought) came with 36mm nuts, while OEM were 35mm. So you either need two sockets, or just re-use the OEMs and keep the Cardones as spares. I always meant to call them and ask WHY!?!?!?!

Would love to hear they fixed this annoying issue.
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:29 PM
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the roadie the roadie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatchet669 View Post
. bt i dont have my book with me for all the specs.....
"If a frog had side pockets, he'd carry a hand gun." Dan Rather
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:40 PM
ScarabEpic22 ScarabEpic22 is offline
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Be prepared to have it up in the air for at least 10hrs, thats about how long it took my dad and I to swap the cv axles and front diff seal out.

The Cardone axles have a different sized nut than the factory ones (35mm fwiw) so I reused the original nuts.

The torque spec is 103 ft/lbs. You will need a puller to remove the steering linkage. I might suggest looking at the front diff seal and seeing if it needs to be replaced, 15 bucks is cheap especially because you have to remove the front axle anyway.

You dont have to remove the brake caliper or rotor if you do it correctly, I have the GM service manual and it doesnt mention removing them.
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:57 PM
02ENVOYMAZ 02ENVOYMAZ is offline
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10hrs??? I was thinking more like 3-5max. It shouldn't be too bad if i just disconnect the upper a arm from the upper ball joint and swing the steering knucle down right??? or is there an easier way? the only understanding i had was getting the old axles out of the diff and back in (having the c clip grab) was the harder part. Is there some tricks i should know, I'm using a friends heated garage and don't wanna tie it up for long. (it has been cold up here)


Thanks for all the help.
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2009, 03:38 PM
02ENVOYMAZ 02ENVOYMAZ is offline
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Hey,

Well i got it done, it only took 3 hrs for both axle shafts and the one wheel bearing. I have no play in either front wheel bearing now but still a little howl when going to the left, the same noise as before so i'm not sure if it's a faulty wheel bearing or something else. Also since this is the wifes vehicle and i don't drive it tons while i was test driving it i found the 4X4 to be really tight. what i mean by this is whether in high or low when turning it almost feels like a solid axle so i'm not sure whats going on, but in 4X4 hi at 80km/h on the road it seems fine just feels like the drive shaft vibrating, so i'm not sure there??

Thanks for the help
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2009, 03:54 PM
929hit 929hit is offline
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The howl is probably the wheel bearing the you didn't replace...
Not turning well in 4wd on a dry surface is normal...
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Old 12-31-2009, 04:04 PM
02ENVOYMAZ 02ENVOYMAZ is offline
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the other bearing must just be slightly worn then, b/c no play, but maybe i'll change it soon. The pavement was wet but it seemed like after turning the steering wheel past 1/2 to 3/4 it was almost like the outside wheel was locking up. I thought it might be the cv joints not broken in yet, but this is normal you say??\
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  #10  
Old 12-31-2009, 04:18 PM
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mubai mubai is offline
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Don't use 4HI on dry pavement or for sharp turns even if it's wet. If you're going slow and making lots of turns when it's wet, use the 4AWD. In 4HI all wheels turn at the same rate; hence, the lock up feeling.

I use 4 HI on the highway when the road is really wet/raining or if it's snow covered. I use 4AWD when I'm driving around the neighborhood. 2HI probably about 90% of the time.

that the other wheel bearing may be bad. If you suspect it's the driveshaft, put the truck up on jackstands or a lift and run it. If it shakes/vibrates like you said then it could be a bad u-joint or bent driveshaft. If there's no vibration/shaking, then it could be wheel bearing...those damn wheel bearings are "always" the problem.
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