This is a complete step-by-step of a Bulldog Deluxe 500 installation. I have previously installed Bulldog units in 2 cars and I find them very easy to use and reliable so I went ahead with Bulldog as my brand of choice. I used the INT-SL module from Fortin to bypass my security system. It was very easy to use and the website has a very straightforward wiring guide.
First off let me say that this site is amazing. Although Bulldog has wiring schematics for different vehicles on their site, I went to the Resources section on Trailvoy and followed their wiring diagrams. It made finding all wires a breeze.
Now, if anyone purchases this unit, I will be happy to post what wires I spliced into what, but since all starters have different wiring harnesses and such, I'll leave that aside unless asked. I also apologize for some blurry photos. These were taken on a 5 megapixel camera on a cell phone and let's just say the focus isn't very advanced.
Ok, so first I soldered and covered the wires in the ignition harness (heavy gauge). I have circled the 6 7mm bolts needed to get to the inside of the steering column.
After removing the main panel, there is a large metal cover over the ignition harness. This must be removed to get to it. There are 4 10mm bolts keeping it fastened, 2 on each side. I had to use 2 extensions on my ratchet to get to them.
I also had to purchase a relay to power accessory #2. Some remote starters may come with this output (be sure its a heavy gauge wire) and will allow you to skip this step. But for me, this starter did not come with an Accessory #2 output but did tell me to use "Ignition #1" to activate the relay. So, this is the relay I purchased from Autozone, along with 14 gauge wiring and female pin connectors.
I placed this relay on one of the bolts below the large metal cover on the right side. It fastened tightly and didn't get in the way. I used Ignition #1 to activate the relay and used one of the 12v constant wires from the ignition harness (red and red/white wires) to power the accessory.
Now the ignition harness is exposed. It is fastened in place with 1 7mm bolt in the center. It's long and takes a bit to come loose so be patient.
The process for soldering the ignition wires is simple. I used an exacto-knife and cut a circle around each wire in 2 places with about a 1 inch gap in between. After cutting both circles, cut straight across and connect both your cuts and pull off the covering of the wire. I then used a pen (anything sharp will work) to spread the copper and leave a gap in between. I slid the wire to be soldered (from the starter module) into the gap and wrapped it around the wire. Then I soldered on either side. After soldering, I wrapped it in electrical tape and put a zip-tie on either side to prevent it from becoming exposed. Using shrink-wrap may be a better choice but let's just say I was a little impatient and this method has worked fine for me before. Thanks to awer25 for showing how to separate the wire from the others with a piece of wood to prevent it from melting them. Here's the process tapping into the starter wire.
Here is the ignition harness with all heavy wires tapped and the entire harness wrapped up in electrical tape. My starter required 3 different 12v constants, my Accessory #2 powered by relay required one, and my INT-SL module required one too so I was sure to evenly distribute them among the 12v constant wires (red and red/white).
I also had to mount the 2-way antenna. I ran the wire across the headliner along the windshield and down the pillar into the bottom of the steering column. The plastic cover over the inside of the pillar pops out just like the cover over the radio. Simply use a flathead screwdriver to pry it out.
I couldn't believe the size of the INT-SL module. Here's a comparison of it with the stock key fob.
What's amazing is that this tiny module controls all functions of the new starter (lock, unlock, parking lights, etc.) all through only 2 wires, OBD wire #2 and Ignition #1. The programming was very simple and straightforward. For those who look at the wiring diagram of the INT-SL, if you do not have the data link connector, be sure to connect the "While Running (-)" wire. I was confused as to why the starter said the car was started even though it wasn't and realized this wire was essential to deactivating the PATS system to start without the key.
The harness that has the brake switch was also tricky to get to. You have to get on your back under the steering column with the seat all the way back. Push back the tab with a flathead screwdriver and tug on the wires to get it loose. You may have a sore back after going back there because it's tough to get to.
After installing everything, I decided to leave off the metal cover because it made fitting everything under the cover difficult. You may also notice wire splicers on some of the wires. On the light gauge wires I chose to use wire splicers since these wires carry very little current. And also notice the hunk of wrapped wires. These wires are programmable outputs that I have not used yet. I haven't thought of any outputs to program but if I do, the harness is right there.
Also, if you don't put the metal cover back under the steering column, be sure to line the main plastic cover with rubber or something to prevent everything from rattling. I made that mistake and the rattle is really bugging me but I have not got around to fixing it (I guess it hasn't annoyed me enough yet).
Thanks for viewing.