How to properly splice any wire - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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  #1  
Old 02-11-2010, 05:00 PM
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joemoto311 joemoto311 is offline
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How to properly splice any wire

The following write up was done because I'm tired of people using those trailer clamps on everything or stakons and not crimping correctly.

The pictures were done at my work after hours and i just used scrap items so please don't ask me what i was splicing together because you will get a stupid response And sorry for the picture quality i was using my phone and didnt have another hand to take clear pictures, but they get the point across.

I hope this helps or corrects at least one person on this forum because then i will feel i have helped someone with soon to be loose connections!!!

tools needed
1. wire strippers(something to strip insulation)
2. solder
3. soldering iron or small torch(afterburner lighters lol)
4. heat shrink (any electronics place will have ie radio shack or I think even auto part stores carry....inexpensive)
5. lighter
6. super 33 electrical tape(i only suggest this type)


Double check all your drawings and make sure you are splicing the right wires together before you start.

This picture is just items I used....I have only red and clear heat shrink because i didnt feel like going to my van to get black.
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Take the wire you want to splice into and strip just the insulation part back try not to nick the wire to bad. It doesnt have to be perfect. All you need to do is get it to start to rip and it will pull apart. Use the same size gauge as you would stripping the end of a wire.
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Now strip off the end of the wire of the device wire that you are connecting into the circuit.
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Twist the wire you just stripped around the wire you are splicing into.
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Now take your soldering iron(or torch) to heat the wire and move from side to side applying the solder(the more the solder doesnt always mean the better, put enough on there but dont go overboard). Try not to melt the insulation back anymore. If you do a little its not a problem. Make sure to get both sides good. Using the lighter torch is my method because the solder will run to the heat source so you usually dont have to spin the wire around like i did in this write up.
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Now take your heat shrink and slide it down the wire to cover where you just spliced into the circuit.


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Take your lighter and run it back and forth below the heatshrink while rotating. Keep the flame off of it a bit. It doesnt need to be right on or you will burn it. A little black isn't bad and from the pics you can see i did a little because i used clear and i'm trying to do this real quick(taking longer than i thought...and its thirsty thursday )


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Take your tape and roll it around tight to make it look good and stick properly(once again i use super 33 because other electrical tape sucks...I'm an electrician)


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Final product holding up 2 kindorf stainless steel feet......
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I hope this helps....I stayed little over an hour after work to do this now i'm going to get stuck in bad traffic and its thirsty thursday(50 cent well drinks) BUT ANYTHING TO HELP OUT THE FORUM! Good luck
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2010, 05:16 PM
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Wow...Ok i think i edited it right....some of the pictures were in the wrong place and i had a couple miss spelled words.
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2010, 06:01 PM
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GavinVoy GavinVoy is offline
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pull test ftw. most people forget that part.
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  #4  
Old 02-11-2010, 06:16 PM
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What...you didn't want to see any more twist together and tape connections?
A friend of mine just earned himself a dope slap for having one of those and
asking me why he didn't have a good connection.... He now owes me
lunch...

But seriously, nice write up, and yes, the "hang" test is definitely
a forgotten touch...

Couple of things that might bear mentioning but might also overcomplicate
things...flux for wires that might not be clean enough to get a good solder joint,
and using liquid electrical tape for joints that you can't get heat shrink on
properly....or cutting and rejoining the wires if you're dead set against liquid tape.

Thanks much for the how-to!

Cheers-

Chris
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  #5  
Old 02-11-2010, 06:30 PM
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joemoto311 joemoto311 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christo829 View Post
What...you didn't want to see any more twist together and tape connections?
A friend of mine just earned himself a dope slap for having one of those and
asking me why he didn't have a good connection.... He now owes me
lunch...

But seriously, nice write up, and yes, the "hang" test is definitely
a forgotten touch...

Couple of things that might bear mentioning but might also overcomplicate
things...flux for wires that might not be clean enough to get a good solder joint,
and using liquid electrical tape for joints that you can't get heat shrink on
properly....or cutting and rejoining the wires if you're dead set against liquid tape.

Thanks much for the how-to!

Cheers-

Chris

haha better buy you something good for lunch!!!

Oh yea that scotch-gaurd liguid tape is awesome i use it as well....Flux is a good thing to use as well but i dont really use it often but its great for the transfer of heat. I did the write up this way so its easier to remove the wires afterwards by just reheating the solder and pulling the joint apart and never actually cut the original wire

thanks for the compliments guys!
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I recommend replacing the flux capacitor once a year on the 02-04's
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2010, 07:04 PM
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high-voltage high-voltage is offline
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Aw hell just throw a wire nut on it and tape it up.


Just kidding!
Good job on the write up!
I don't use the heat shrink much unless it is the kind with the goop on the inside to seal it. But most of the splices I do are on 4/0 wire and get buried.
A+ on the 33 and scotch-guard!
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2010, 07:44 PM
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Nice write up --hopefully it will reduce ???'s about this topic
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2010, 11:52 PM
DJones DJones is offline
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I do the same thing! (Don't tell my mom that I use her embossing tool to shrink it) But I don't put electrical tape over it as I think the heat-shrink is good enought but I do like the 33+.
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  #9  
Old 02-12-2010, 12:20 AM
NAH916 NAH916 is offline
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Nice write up. I vote for "sticky".
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  #10  
Old 02-12-2010, 01:55 AM
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