Air Conditioning Problem, 2002 Trailblazer - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > OEM Issues

OEM Issues Original Equipment Repairs and/or Problems

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2011, 01:41 PM
dannystroh dannystroh is offline
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2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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Air Conditioning Problem, 2002 Trailblazer

When I turn my air conditioning on it blows cold for about a minute or two and then the air starts to turn warmer. I am having trouble pin pointing the problem. Anyone ever hear of this before or have any suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2011, 01:49 PM
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Both sides, driver's and passenger's?

How's the temperature of the receiver/drier, the silver canister on the passenger's side of the engine compartment on the firewall?

Is the compressor clutch still engaged?

Any debris clogging the fins of the condenser, the hot part of the AC system sitting in front of the radiator?

Any AC professional taken a look at the high and low side pressures with their gauges?
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2011, 03:30 PM
dannystroh dannystroh is offline
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this is happening in all the air conditioning vents, both driver and passenger side. It has plenty of free on but besides that I know nothing else. What should I do first?
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Old 06-01-2011, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannystroh View Post
What should I do first?
Get the answers to my other questions.

How do you know it has plenty of refrigerant? Note: performance in the first few minutes is no proof of the proper amount of charge.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:02 PM
dannystroh dannystroh is offline
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I had a mechanic look at it but he couldnt figure out the problem. He told me there's plenty of free-on in it though so that's not the problem.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:19 PM
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You need a better mechanic, then.

There should be no reason (unless you have a physical disability) that you can't get the answers to my questions. Is there?

How do you think Internet forum troubleshooting works anyway? You ask for help. Experienced people ask for data. You provide it. We guess (without being able to lay hands on the vehicle) what the problem might be, usually in order of probabilities. You take that guess and turn it into action by replacing parts and making more observations. If we ask you to get data like the voltage on a particular wire, you pull out a voltmeter and measure it.

It sounds like what you're asking us to do is unreasonable. If you already took it to a mechanic, are you saying you're going to take a list of our guesses back to the same mechanic to see if we can educate him as to the list of possible failures in an automotive AC system?

Volunteers here would love to help. But help us help you by engaging in the give-and-take process, please.
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2011, 04:28 PM
dannystroh dannystroh is offline
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the compressor clutch engages when the a/c is turned on, and there is no debris clogging the fins of the condenser. Im not sure how to take the temperature of the receiver/drier though.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:32 PM
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Just feel it. It should be wet from condensing moisture from the air like a cold soda can, and feel just above ice cold.

In a minute, as your interior air starts to get warm, see if the AC clutch is STILL engaged as expected and if the receiver/drier is as cold as before.

If the clutch is engaged, the compressor is spinning, and the receiver/drier starts to warm up to match the interior air temp, then freon charge would be my first guess. Get an AC professional instead of your original mechanic.
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Old 06-01-2011, 04:41 PM
dannystroh dannystroh is offline
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the compressor clutched disengaged after the first minute, when the air started to get warm. what does this mean?
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  #10  
Old 06-01-2011, 04:57 PM
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Either a failing low pressure cycling switch, mounted on the side of the receiver/drier, or low freon pressure. Your mechanic couldn't troubleshoot this? Just take it to an AC professional, since you might be wasting your money changing the low pressure switch. The function of the switch is to protect the compressor against fatally damaging itself if the freon is leaking out. A compressor cannot safely be allowed (or forced) to run while it's partially or fully discharged.
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