Upper Ball Joint Replacement Tomorrow - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires > Suspension

Suspension Suspension

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  #1  
Old 07-25-2011, 11:32 PM
WorkinMontana WorkinMontana is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Graystone Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ontario
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Upper Ball Joint Replacement Tomorrow

Hello All,

I am a newbie to this website. I wish I new about this site years ago... was using some other site.

I am tackling an upper ball joint replacement tomorrow night when my wife is done work. I have read up on the blogs already posted and they were very helpful. The lower ball joint and along with wheel hub assembly and sway bar linkage were all done about two months ago. I had a ton of problems ended up buying a new ball joint because the press we used flexed to much and went in real crooked.

I have lined up a Powerbuilt #648602 to do the pressing this time. Will that work for me on my 2003 Chevy Trailblazer (passenger side)? Also, what am I going to have to disconnect to make it easy for the press to clear the inner fender wall?
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  #2  
Old 07-26-2011, 12:05 AM
SparkyJJO SparkyJJO is offline
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2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Forest Green Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
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The upper joint is pressed into the spindle arm, not the upper control arm (same as the lower joint). Once you detach the joint from the upper control arm and swing the spindle outward, you shouldn't have too much trouble with clearance.

When I did my joints (with the help of a friend) I did both uppers and lowers together with the spindle completely removed from the truck and clamped in a bench vise.

I'm not familiar with that ball joint press, sorry.
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  #3  
Old 07-26-2011, 09:38 PM
WorkinMontana WorkinMontana is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
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The Powerbuilt Press Kit#24 worked great today. Only had to remove the bracket that holds the speed sensor cable and brake fluid cable to the back of the arm and one clip as well. This gave enough room to pull the wheel hub clear of the fender wall.

The entire process took an hour or so. The most time being consumed in removing the speed sensor cable from one of the clips. The use of a four point lift helped as well.

Furthermore it actually was not my upper ball joint causing the problems. The boot was ripped, maybe a little wear and there was lots of grease was still bound up. The actual problem was my sway bar link. It was not tightened properly when I had the wheel hub assembly ripped apart a few months back.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:07 PM
SparkyJJO SparkyJJO is offline
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Ah yes the infamous loose end link causing a clunking rattle. I had that recently, drove me nuts until I realized what it was, then it was like

But hey, if the ball joint boot was torn, it's lifespan has been shortened. Plus, if it was original it can't have hurt to replace anyway.
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:01 PM
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Mistral150 Mistral150 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Montreal
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Question

Hi all !
I finally got my lower ball joint (Nascar advantage from the makers of MOOG)
and Canadian tire has this tool to make the job http://californiavan.com/frontend/80...es/Image1.html I just need to know if this tool is ok because the ball joint does not have "circlip" to lock it in place. My ball joint have to be flared. does this tool can flare the Ball Joint.

PS the ball joint looks like the AC/Delco with no clip.

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  #6  
Old 12-07-2011, 09:10 PM
rmsg0040 rmsg0040 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Pewter Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
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That kit works well. You just got to figure what receiver cups to use. This is the upper.

When I did mine I pressed it down, actually forced the ball joint right out of the ball joint assembly itself. Then, instead of flipping the c-clamp. I just pulled the new 1 up and in. I had an air impact gun, was done in less than 45 minutes by myself.

Only had to buy a snap ring plier, not necessary. I also used liquid wrench and a propane torch, both I already had lying around.

As for the lower, you need a cold chisel to get rid of the "flares".

Air impact or electric highly recommended.


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  #7  
Old 12-07-2011, 09:47 PM
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Mistral150 Mistral150 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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My main question here, is about the FLARE... The new ball joint need to be flared (NO CLIP) can the kit do the flare with an adapter or it is not possible ?

Thank you for the fast answer.
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  #8  
Old 12-07-2011, 10:18 PM
rmsg0040 rmsg0040 is offline
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Never seen that before, most aftermarket balljoints for the trailblazer have a clip.

Take a pic, also whats the part # of the ball joint you got?
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  #9  
Old 12-08-2011, 02:05 PM
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Mistral150 Mistral150 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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Forget about the OEM ball joint, I returned them and got MOOG joints. My next question (did not found on forum) are the steps to get to the joint. Can I just unbolt the joint, knock the side of the control arm and separate from the knuckle or I have to remove the CV shaft ?

I've seen a picture on this forum with the CV shaft still in place, I'm I wrong ?

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