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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > OEM Issues

OEM Issues Original Equipment Repairs and/or Problems

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  #1  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:01 PM
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APorter APorter is offline
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2005 Chevy TrailBlazer LT EXT
Liquid Silver Metallic 4.2L I6 AWD
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Those darn P0017 codes

2005 Trailblazer EXT 4wd 4.2L I6

Started when I replaced the head myself. I did the job in the engine compartment so I never pulled the front cover. Instead, I kept tension on the timing chain by using pull-ties and fastened the chain to the intake cam sprocket. I made sure the engine was at TDC beforehand as to make reassembly easy. When I lifted the head, the chain/sprocket dropped thru the head slot and on reassembly, I just pulled the chain/sprocket back up thru. Reassembled as easy as it came apart. Did a self check and hand-turned the crank 3 times without any collisions. Started up real easy but after warm-up, it began to stall at low idle. It would restart no problem but would stall when the idle came back down. I drove it all over town and it seemed to "relearn" on its own.

FFWD 4 days: It threw a P0017 code and began to stall again. I had suspicions of timing misalignment. How could it run so good but be out of time? So I took it to a dealer and they changed out the thermostat and cam phaser but it still stalled. They quoted me $1668.38 to fix the prob which they claimed to be a timing misalignment. Um, No Thanks!

FFWD 2 days: I tore it back down and sure enuf, it was 1 link off of time. I reassembled it and it has the exact same prob as before but now Im relearning it with a bunch more horsepower. The more I drive it, the better it runs (and stays running). I cleared the codes and haven't had one since but it still wants to stall once in a while at low idle.

Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:32 PM
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bromanjr bromanjr is offline
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2004 GMC Envoy SLT XUV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APorter View Post
2005 Trailblazer EXT 4wd 4.2L I6

Started when I replaced the head myself. I did the job in the engine compartment so I never pulled the front cover. Instead, I kept tension on the timing chain by using pull-ties and fastened the chain to the intake cam sprocket. I made sure the engine was at TDC beforehand as to make reassembly easy. When I lifted the head, the chain/sprocket dropped thru the head slot and on reassembly, I just pulled the chain/sprocket back up thru. Reassembled as easy as it came apart. Did a self check and hand-turned the crank 3 times without any collisions. Started up real easy but after warm-up, it began to stall at low idle. It would restart no problem but would stall when the idle came back down. I drove it all over town and it seemed to "relearn" on its own.

FFWD 4 days: It threw a P0017 code and began to stall again. I had suspicions of timing misalignment. How could it run so good but be out of time? So I took it to a dealer and they changed out the thermostat and cam phaser but it still stalled. They quoted me $1668.38 to fix the prob which they claimed to be a timing misalignment. Um, No Thanks!

FFWD 2 days: I tore it back down and sure enuf, it was 1 link off of time. I reassembled it and it has the exact same prob as before but now Im relearning it with a bunch more horsepower. The more I drive it, the better it runs (and stays running). I cleared the codes and haven't had one since but it still wants to stall once in a while at low idle.

Any ideas?
After reading what you reported that the dealer did, Apparently they must have changed the CPAS (solenoid on side of engine) , not the cam phaser (under the cover on front of exhaust cam) Or they would have fixed the cam timing while they were there. Let me know if I am mistaken here.

Congrats for getting the head changed, not sure if I would take on that job.

Two thing I can suggest:
1) Check and clean the backside of the Throttle Body, if you haven't already.
2) Make sure you used AC Delco Iridium plugs.

Any codes yet?
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  #3  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:36 PM
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I used the recommended plugs from Advance Auto and the dealer cleaned the throttle body. The unit they changed was the silver sensor/valve with the 2 screens in the long end.

Thanks for the compliment. It wasn't as hard as everyone made it sound although i haven't worked out those bugs yet..lol
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APorter View Post
I used the recommended plugs from Advance Auto and the dealer cleaned the throttle body. The unit they changed was the silver sensor/valve with the 2 screens in the long end.

Thanks for the compliment. It wasn't as hard as everyone made it sound although i haven't worked out those bugs yet..lol
Don't trust that the dealer cleaned the backside of the TB, check it.

The silver sensor/valve with 2 screens is the CPAS.

Recommended plugs are AC Delco Iridium #41-103.

If they sold you Iridium plugs you are ok. If they sold you Platinum, take them back, Platinum of any brand will usually cause misfires and sluggishness.
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2011, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bromanjr View Post
Don't trust that the dealer cleaned the backside of the TB, check it......


Read that to mean remove the throttle body from the engine completely and clean EVERYTHING.
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2011, 11:54 PM
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Search the forum for a how to if you need one. Pull it off the the engine to do it, don't cheat on that part

I plan on pulling mine and cleaning it once a year, maybe even twice. The difference it made in my idle and throttle response by doing this 30 minute job was unbelievable

Might as well check and make sure they actually cleaned it, and had the battery unplugged (or whatever a gm mech. does to reset the computer). I hope this fixes your problems.
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:22 AM
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OK guys, I know you mean well but if you read my 1st post thoroughly, you'd notice that I tore the engine down again after the dealer had their hands in there. The throttle body was spotless. I appreciate the insight but thats deff not the issue.

Im leaning towards a learning issue or some procedure that Ive missed.

Thanks again for the efforts with the TB, I just know that its been spit-shined..lol
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  #8  
Old 07-31-2011, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APorter View Post
OK guys, I know you mean well but if you read my 1st post thoroughly, you'd notice that I tore the engine down again after the dealer had their hands in there. The throttle body was spotless. I appreciate the insight but thats deff not the issue.

Im leaning towards a learning issue or some procedure that Ive missed.

Thanks again for the efforts with the TB, I just know that its been spit-shined..lol


Thanks for clarifying, Tearing the engine down once or even twice does not mean you cleaned the backside of the TB. Just wanting to suggest "possible" reasons you are having issues.

What about the plugs? what brand/part # did you use? Again, Recommended plugs are AC Delco Iridium #41-103.

AFAIK, There is no learning procedure to follow, the computer learns as needed. The only sensor that requires a procedure is the crank sensor, and usually a code pops up to say it is needed.

Only other thing that comes to mind is a vacuum leak causing your stalling.
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  #9  
Old 08-01-2011, 04:16 PM
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I checked the plugs and unfortunately, I had put in Autolite platinums so I swapped them out with the AC Delcos. Trucks runs alot better but still has the stalling issue. I drove it to work today and never stalled but it did post a new P0017 code. Drove it home and began to stall about halfway home at every intersection.

Do you think replacing the cam phaser would do any good?

Thanks for the input, bromanjr. People like you guys here save us rednecks alot of time and money.

I'll keep this thread updated as I come across more.
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  #10  
Old 08-01-2011, 04:59 PM
Answer069 Answer069 is offline
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ok While I'm afraid I can't be of much help here this is what I found about what could be causing the P0017 code to set:
The following conditions may cause this DTC to set:

An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer

A mis-built or mis-timed engine

A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt

Excessive crankshaft endplay

The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open

The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees

That is straight from GM's Service Information. Hope this helps.
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