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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2006 - 2009 TrailBlazer SS Tech > 06-09 SS Engine and Drivetrain > Engine Tunes/Mods

Engine Tunes/Mods Engine tuning and/or modifications

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  #71  
Old 11-06-2006, 05:32 AM
02redhawk's Avatar
02redhawk 02redhawk is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer SS
Silverstone Metallic 6.0L LS2 V8 AWD
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Macomb, MI
Posts: 849
Quote:
Originally Posted by VTODD View Post
nevermind on that plug. i figured out how to get it out, put it in the AFRs, and now the smoke is gone. no more smokey. thats great. well, i went on a test drive, and i didnt even make it a block and i notice my temps are skyrocketing. they hit 300 degrees in a matter of seconds and the DIC signaled COOLANT TEMPS HIGH or something like that. so i turned around turned it off immediately. one problem to the next. whats going on with my coolant now? that cluth fan stays engaged constantly of course, and the temps rise abnormally. when i turn it off, it sounds like there some weird stuff going on in the radiator . like air burping inside.

todd

Yep, now you have air in your coolant system - ie, air pocket stuck in the heads or in the water-pump. Do an air-bleed of the system & refill it with coolant/distilled H2O mix, and you should be all set.
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'06 Trailblazer SS LT. Silverstone Metallic, AWD. 6.0L LS2.
'02 Trailblazer LT. Indigo Blue Metallic. 4.2L I-6.
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  #72  
Old 11-06-2006, 08:20 AM
bbradyc5 bbradyc5 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 588
Posted from older thread when I had same issues with air pocket in cooling system:

Notice: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine damage.
  1. Remove coolant bleed hose -passenger side front head
  2. Install the lower radiator hose.
  3. Slide the clamp into the original position.
  4. Lower the vehicle. Install the radiator cap. Remove coolant recovery reservoir cap.
  5. Slowly add your mixture of 50/50 DEX-COOL antifreeze to the cooling system through the coolant recovery reservoir.
  6. Fill the coolant recovery reservoir with the remaining coolant.
  7. Install the coolant recovery reservoir cap.
  8. Install the coolant air bleed hose to the cyl head.
  9. YOU CAN STOP FILLING THE ENGINE WHEN COOLANT COMES OUT OF THE BLEED SPOUT AND THE RADIATOR IS FULL.
  10. Slide the coolant air bleed hose clamp back to the original position. Start the engine. Run the engine from 1,000-3,000 RPM in 30-second intervals until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
  11. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes before repeating the last step.
  12. Shut the engine OFF.
  13. Allow the engine to cool.
  14. Top off the coolant recovery reservoir as necessary.
  15. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
  16. Inspect the cooling system for leaks.
Mine actually "burped" itself out after letting it sit for a few hours. Make sure to check overflow over next couple of days as all air will work its way out of the system and you may need a little top off.
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  #73  
Old 11-06-2006, 08:34 AM
VTODD VTODD is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 550
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbradyc5 View Post
Posted from older thread when I had same issues with air pocket in cooling system:

Notice: The procedure below must be followed. Improper coolant level could result in a low or high coolant level condition, causing engine damage.
  1. Remove coolant bleed hose -passenger side front head
  2. Install the lower radiator hose.
  3. Slide the clamp into the original position.
  4. Lower the vehicle. Install the radiator cap. Remove coolant recovery reservoir cap.
  5. Slowly add your mixture of 50/50 DEX-COOL antifreeze to the cooling system through the coolant recovery reservoir.
  6. Fill the coolant recovery reservoir with the remaining coolant.
  7. Install the coolant recovery reservoir cap.
  8. Install the coolant air bleed hose to the cyl head.
  9. YOU CAN STOP FILLING THE ENGINE WHEN COOLANT COMES OUT OF THE BLEED SPOUT AND THE RADIATOR IS FULL.
  10. Slide the coolant air bleed hose clamp back to the original position. Start the engine. Run the engine from 1,000-3,000 RPM in 30-second intervals until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
  11. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes before repeating the last step.
  12. Shut the engine OFF.
  13. Allow the engine to cool.
  14. Top off the coolant recovery reservoir as necessary.
  15. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
  16. Inspect the cooling system for leaks.
Mine actually "burped" itself out after letting it sit for a few hours. Make sure to check overflow over next couple of days as all air will work its way out of the system and you may need a little top off.

thanks for that. i will try that today. will air in the coolant sytem be part of the reason why the heater wont work too?
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  #74  
Old 11-06-2006, 09:48 AM
bbradyc5 bbradyc5 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 588
If your system is air locked, their may not be any coolant flowing through your heater core (ie no heat). Sounds like you just need to get rid of the air in the system and you should be good to go.
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  #75  
Old 11-06-2006, 09:49 AM
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jimmyjam jimmyjam is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer SS (LT)
White 402ci Other AWD
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: clearwater fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTODD View Post
thanks for that. i will try that today. will air in the coolant sytem be part of the reason why the heater wont work too?
definately, if coolant isn't moving through the engine block its not moving through the heater core either
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  #76  
Old 11-06-2006, 09:49 PM
VTODD VTODD is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 550
its running fine, and iam back from the dyno

well, i bled all that air out of the coolant and put it on a dyno. without any tuning, it made the exact same #'s that it made from speed inc with just a cam. that was pretty upsetting. so we did some tuning, added some timing, leaned it out barely, and it made 370/379. that was also dissappointing. i thought it would easily make over 400 w/ these expensive heads. everybody at the shop was flabbergasted. well, i talked to tony mamo from AFR, we researched the minor details with the tuner, and pretty much came up with the notion that this is all the truck has, and thats all these heads should of made. tony said that my cam is such a baby cam, he wouldnt expect more than a 20ish hp/tq gain.

anyways, after comparing my baseline at this particular shop (fc customs) to the new dyno numbers, the gains looks pretty good. the baseline on their dyno jet was 288/299, so if you do the math on the same dyno, i gained 82 hp and 80 tq from a baby cam, AFR heads, headers, magnaflow catback and a k&n intake (soon to be replaced by a vector). i dont know if thats good or bad.

anyways, driving it is a lot more fun now. yea the numbers really pissed me off and were quite upsetting, but once i take off my dyno queen mask and drive it, its easy to notice the smooth torque that just pulls. sounds damn good with the cutout open (which only gained a couple more power open, by the way).

anyways, here are the graphs. baseline on the same dyno as the after with h/c. now i just need to figure out how to match my mods and make some real man power



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  #77  
Old 11-06-2006, 11:10 PM
Essque Essque is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 127
wow congrats
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  #78  
Old 11-07-2006, 02:13 PM
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torker torker is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Summit White 4.2L I6 2WD
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 703
Congrats on getting it figured out Todd. Don't worry about the numbers. It could have the same peak hp. but make more down low and throughout the rpm. = faster et and more fun. Dave
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