Front Differential Seal - Page 2 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > 4x4 Drivetrain

4x4 Drivetrain 4x4 Repairs & Problems

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  #11  
Old 05-19-2010, 12:15 PM
Mike O Mike O is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Dark Green Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
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Axle Shaft

And what about when re- installing the spline back into the diff? Are there any issues that I should be concerned about? BTW this is a 2004 Trailblazer LS 4WD. Also I just wanted to say that the site is very informative and a must if you work on your own vehicle.

Thanks,
Mike O
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  #12  
Old 05-20-2010, 06:33 PM
noneck noneck is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
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Re-install

Reinstall just be careful of Tripot assembly...do not pull sections apart. Kinda clicks back in but not obvious, keep inward pressure while reseating the stuff back on the outboard side of the half axle. Compare gap from housing to big barrel section with otherside that has not been pulled apart to assure yourself its fully engaged.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2010, 01:02 AM
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the roadie the roadie is offline
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2004 GMC Envoy SLT "Roadiemobile"
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I just use a 2 pound rubber mallet on the CV shaft outboard side to engage the circlip. If I break something, I always carry a spare CV shaft in case I need one on the trail.



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  #14  
Old 07-11-2010, 07:48 PM
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GarbeVic GarbeVic is offline
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2002 Chevy Trailblazer LS, 110K miles
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Another way to extract seal (with pics)

This is a great how to thread! I followed the preceding advice, but with my own twist on the bit about getting the seal out of the differential. My job was made easy by this funky old tool I had lying about (kind of a cross between a cats-paw and a hammer).

I was planning to replace the seal due to minor leak, so I did not care about damaging it. Given the amount of force I used, and descriptions from others in this forum, I do not believe you can remove it and re-use it.

First photo shows the tools used for prying.

Next two photos show how I placed the tools, using the flat of the smaller tool to protect the differential. (The prominence of the brand name on one tool in the photo was not intentional.)

Then took the last photo of the adjuster inside (after wiping it off).

Kept it from "drooling" fluid by jacking driver side up high (full reach of floor jack under frame). Kept the jack and TWO jack stands in there for safety.

I realize this may only be helpful if you, too, have one of those odd pry-bars. Hope it helps...
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2010, 06:20 AM
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a yazan a yazan is offline
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I have the same problem , when I have the maintenance and replacing oils ( engine , transmitter , front and rear differentials ,,, The mechanic told me there is leaking in the front differential and advised me driving under 120 km until I fix the leaking and now its empty ( no oil ) because it will seal in 2hours .
I bought that part and I'm going tomorrow the workshop to fix it BUT I'm afraid that the Differential has been disrupted now and should be replaced


Although ... sometimes I could hear the sound like Nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn appears at a speed of 120 km
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  #16  
Old 07-19-2010, 11:50 AM
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the roadie the roadie is offline
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Your mechanic should have advised you to not drive even ONE MILE with a dry differential. Some members have driven with dry diffs and they have survived after being filled. But then we never hear from them again 1 or 2 years later to see if it was permanently OK or damaged.

We just have no data.

Sorry.



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  #17  
Old 07-19-2010, 06:11 PM
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a yazan a yazan is offline
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Not for safety reasons .

He said that the front Differential will be engaged - or fully connected - when i reach a speed of 120 km
By the way .. I have a 44, but I do not use it once.
but tomorrow i will go to this man to fix it .

thank you mr.roadie.
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  #18  
Old 07-19-2010, 11:18 PM
OldSVTGuy OldSVTGuy is offline
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For what it's worth, there is an attachment for removing CV axles using a slide hammer. Next time, I'm going to buy one - about $35 from the usual on-line tool stores. I't like a bit C that goes behind the CV joint and a good slide hammer can generate quite a bit of shock and pull. OTC 7505 is one example.
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2010, 08:23 PM
flexeril flexeril is offline
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2004 GMC Envoy SLE XL
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So for those of you that replaced this POS seal, what is the right part number? I just wasted 4 hours of my valuable time fOOOking around with my wife's POS envoy. The local store sold me the wrong part. I am pissed. To make things better against my favor, all the stores in this crappy town have nothing. I ended up special ordering it from the dealer. They don't even have one in the shelf!

I only wonder if I took this POS envoy to have the dealer do the entire job and they would end up telling me that they would have to keep it over the weekend until the part arrives monday....

Last gmc I will ever get. the icon does not even do justice on how sick I am of this pos vehicle
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  #20  
Old 11-05-2010, 10:58 PM
Mike O Mike O is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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circlip

Do you by chance have a picture of the circlip and it's exact location. I'm not understanding that part of the removal. the old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" would help me with this one.

Thanks,
Mike O
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