Replacing Valve Cover gasket! - Page 2 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > Engine Tunes/Mods

Engine Tunes/Mods Performance Engine Tuning/Engine Modifications

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  #11  
Old 09-03-2015, 12:10 AM
bingnune bingnune is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT EXT
Dark Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: May 2015
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 5
I originally bought the disconnect package for about $15, and then double guessed myself and bought the plastic quick disconnect package for about $5. Let's just say, I wasted the $5 because my fuel lines just laughed at me! I tried to get the second line off and dropped the tool under the alternator. I used the you one step bigger and eventually got it...

My big issue now is the fuel line plate. It looks like the bolt is hidden so far inside, I have to go in the backyard just to look for it! How do you get that stupid thing out of there so I can move on?
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2015, 01:34 PM
Vampyrate Vampyrate is offline
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2005 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Cranberry Red Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 7
I'm considering tackling this project (have the valve cover gasket coming in tomorrow) and was doing a bit of research. From what I've seen floating around, I will need to get the intake gasket and the manifold does have to come off (though Haynes mentions nothing of the sort). Anyone in Fauquier County VA want a few beers in the next few weeks (waiting on pads and rotors to come in as well). I already have the brake tool for the rear, and even the press to do upper ball joints if anyone wants to do that as well lol
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2016, 01:31 PM
tb381's Avatar
tb381 tb381 is offline
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2007 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Steel Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 2
last bolt of intake manifold

you are the best private mechanic in the world

please tell me how you remove the last bolt from intake manifold....I have got all the tools in the world....I did not find how reach that MF. I don't want to break anything...
please advise how you reach there... it will be help full if u upload a picture of tools. I mean what extensions you use reach their.

your usual cooperation in this regard will be highly appreciated.
awaiting for your kind reply


Quote:
Originally Posted by erictech View Post
Ok, so I managed to complete this project...but of course, as I somewhat expected, the results are less than desirable.

I know my PCM is going through its relearn phase, so I'm trying to wait it out and see if all clears up. But, it still feels like something is wrong. I just replaced all the plugs, my throttle body is clean and I replaced the camshaft actuator solenoid and the camshaft position sensors previously. In other words, I'm not convinced the valve cover gasket was the ultimate fix.

Regardless, the most difficult part of this whole thing was getting the last bolt out and back in of the intake manifold. Everything else was relatively straight forward.

I did buy a Chilton guide to help with torque specs and some removal/installation assistance. I never thought I'd spend $25 on a book...

I also replaced the intake manifold gasket since I had it off and the Fel-Pro product details said to get it.

One of the intake bolts wasn't actually tight, or barely even had a thread in but the other 9 were ok, so I doubt that was a problem.

I don't really have much advice for others looking to do it, but it can be done. Took me maybe 10-12 hours of total labor and I have never done anything of this magnitude...and probably won't ever again.

Thanks a ton for the tools advice, the fuel line tool came in super handy, $14 well spent. I spent a few dollars at Harbor Freight and got everything I didn't have and some things I didn't need. An offset 10mm I could have done without, but as I didn't have a 10mm open wrench I got a u-joint type wrench set. I ended up taping my u-joints and adapters to give them a little more stiffness and I taped my extensions and sockets so I would quit losing them chasing that last manifold bolt down. A u-joint is pretty much a must on the back bolt.

Definitely sliding the top of the vent hose was way easier than trying to get to the clamp.

As for the A/C, it does not need to come out. There is just enough room to slide the valve cover under it. You may need a hand though.

Otherwise, thanks again all for the help. If anyone has questions, I can try to answer...if I remember I will report back after the pcm learns my vehicle again.
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  #14  
Old 12-04-2016, 02:34 PM
tb381's Avatar
tb381 tb381 is offline
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2007 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Steel Gray Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Kuwait
Posts: 2
Valve.cover gasket replacement for tb 2007
Successfuly completed the project on 03/04 december 2016.
it took from me 9 hours to dessembling and 5 hourse for assembling... total 14 hour working.

Good results
No more missfire(it was missfiring cause oil in cylinder) + i clean fuel rail and fuel injectors
Engine is not loosing power on idle
Rpm very much stayable.on idle
No pressure leakage.
Trying to upload pictures and videos but error on this site...dontknow why

Only last bolt (with firewall) of intake manifold took extra time...other all things came out on required time.

I suggest before u start this project go dirrectly to that last intake manifold bolt if that loosen then goahead for ur rest of the project.

Any question is welcome.
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2017, 11:43 AM
victimssun victimssun is offline
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2003 GMC Envoy SLE XL
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Mechanicsburg, PA
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by tb381 View Post
Valve.cover gasket replacement for tb 2007
Successfuly completed the project on 03/04 december 2016.
it took from me 9 hours to dessembling and 5 hourse for assembling... total 14 hour working.

Good results
No more missfire(it was missfiring cause oil in cylinder) + i clean fuel rail and fuel injectors
Engine is not loosing power on idle
Rpm very much stayable.on idle
No pressure leakage.
Trying to upload pictures and videos but error on this site...dontknow why

Only last bolt (with firewall) of intake manifold took extra time...other all things came out on required time.

I suggest before u start this project go dirrectly to that last intake manifold bolt if that loosen then goahead for ur rest of the project.

Any question is welcome.
I just did this too! Successfully! Since this has been the most recently updated (I think) post, I just wanted to add some useful links and information that I found. Everything you said about the intake manifold is accurate, that last bolt is a real doozy. I didn't complete any work with the fuel rail or injectors however. After replacing all seals, I still had a misfire. I didn't have a code reader, so I purchased one Ignition Coil and swapped it in one at a time. My issue was with #6, after this was replaced she sounded amazing. I'm not a real car guy, and this was definitely the biggest project I did. It was mostly time consuming.

Below are some links and pictures that helped me along.
https://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost....3&postcount=31
https://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.php?t=153930
https://forums.trailvoy.com/showpost....1&postcount=12
Chevrolet Trailblazer Valve Job Part 1; Teardown
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  #16  
Old 03-24-2017, 01:51 PM
VinceBaca VinceBaca is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
Liquid Silver Metallic 4.2L I6 AWD
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Denver, Co
Posts: 1
Specs

What were the specs for torquing the valve cover down or would it be hand tight preferably? as well as everything else related to the process.
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  #17  
Old 06-30-2017, 12:08 AM
ICoull ICoull is offline
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2005 GMC Envoy SLT
Black 4.2L I6 AWD
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Castlegar BC.
Posts: 5
Intake manifold torque spec/ firewall bolt removal/replace

GM manual calls for 89 inch/lbs. I found that the best way to deal with the last bolt next to the firewall involved lying atop the engine [on an old chair cushion]
so that I could reach down behind the back of the engine/manifold with my left hand to locate the bolt head, while a 10 mm socket on a universal joint was being used in my right hand to unscrew the little devil. There was more room behind the engine to locate and guide the socket onto the bolt head with my left hand than I would have guessed. Also, definitely pull both the alternator and the triangular ecu/wiring support out before trying to access the manifold bolts. The wiring support bolt at the apex of the triangle [underneath] is only accessible with the alternator removed. The A/C line will move aside if the engine lifting bracket in the front left of the engine is removed.
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2019, 02:33 PM
gopherfan gopherfan is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Graphite Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: St Paul, MN
Posts: 3
I'm in the middle of this project. I actually had very little trouble with the bolt back by the firewall. At least taking it put. Like I said, I am in the middle of the project.

I used a 1/4" drive 10mm deep well socket, a universal joint, a 3" extension.
I put the socket on by hand, and then added the U-joint and extension after the socket was on solid.
It came off part way, and I took off the U-Joint and extension.
Then I hand turned the socket the rest of the way.
It took about 3 minutes. So far I have spent about 1.5 hours total. I need to head to the store to get the fuel line disconnect tools and the gaskets.

I'll edit this post when I am done to let you know total time.

This is my first post, so I am not going to be able to show pictures or it didn't happen.
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