Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum banner

A Step-by-Step Viper 5901 Remote Starter & Alarm Installation Guide

309K views 173 replies 51 participants last post by  craze_47 
#1 · (Edited)
A Step-by-Step Viper 5901 Remote Starter & Alarm Installation Guide (Now with Pics!)

Initial disclaimer: I am not a master installer, but a mere plebe looking to save money. While I’ve installed car audio components in the past, I had zero knowledge of remote starter systems before attempting this install. Everything I’ve learned was from lots and lots of Google searches, reading manuals, and PM’ing Trailvoy members (thanks MAY03LT and Green monster!). That said, please use this guide at your own risk. It’s not that complicated, but if you aren’t careful you can cripple your beloved Trailblazer/Envoy/Rainier/9-7x/Bravada/Ascender, etc. I will also be adding/modifying sections of this article in the coming days as more things come to mind (I did the whole install then wrote this up afterwards).

Second Disclaimer: This was installed on a 2005 Buick Rainier with OnStar, Bose, DIC, heated seats & mirrors, etc. I don’t know how other wiring harnesses are different. Please take the time to familiarize yourself with your own system.

For all of you that wanted the color Viper 5902 ($375), you should know that the internals are the same. Two different Viper reps confirmed that the only difference was the remote. Therefore, my plan is to install the 5901, then buy a 5902 remote (p/n 7941V) when they become cheaper and more readily available.

Here is a list of the parts I used (links are for information, not best prices – prices in parenthesis are what I paid after some research):
-Viper 5901 ($189)
-GM Interface Module (DLPKGM $45)
-506T Glass-break sensor ($10)
-507M Tilt sensor ($25)
-520T Backup battery ($10)
-2x 513T Mini piezo sirens ($15/ea)
-998T Bitwriter ($80 and completely optional - it just makes programming easier…version 2.6 is required)
-Heineken Beer Dispenser ($129 and totally necessary!)

Tools:
-soldering gun w/ rosin core solder (preferably a 110V gun type – they are far superior). I got the Weller D550 200/260 watt.
-7mm & 10mm sockets w/ ratchet and extension
-Flashlight
-mini razor knife
-digital multimeter (and knowledge of its use)
-screwdrivers & pliers (needle-nose and regular)
-spools of heavy gauge wire (12ga) and, if going to rear brake light (you’ll read why later), regular wire (18ga)
-4-pin Bosch style relay

Time:
If it’s your first install – a lot. Give yourself a full day b/c from the time you cut the starter wire at the ignition harness until the time you finish, your car will not start... and likely you’ll realize you need something from the parts store in the middle of the install ;)

Now, the overall picture – The DLPKGM (or XK01, etc) acts as the go-between, handling commands between the Viper unit and your car. There are two ways to connect the Viper unit and the DLPKGM: a 4-wire serial connector that handles almost all inter-unit communications (“D2D”) or hardwiring each connection (“W2W”). The benefit of D2D is that from the DLPKGM, you only have to connect two wires to your car and two to the Viper. W2W requires 10 (same 2 to the car, and 8 to the Viper). As you can see, the D2D cable takes the place of 6 wires. The drawback is that problems are harder to diagnose b/c most commands travel over the same wires. Also, a Viper installer I met explained that DEI just sent them a new batch of D2D wires. Apparently they switched the order of the wires in the cable. I'll post the correct order next time I go work on it.

Installation Manuals – READ THESE BEFORE INSTALLING!
-Viper 5901
-DLPKGM (also supplemental Trailvoy doc)
Alternatively, you can use the cheaper XK01 ($15). Both modules are made by Xpresskit (a brand of DEI), the DLPKGM is just a more feature-rich model. The main benefits to the DLPKGM are that it auto-programs itself and it automatically turns on the heated seats, rear defog, etc when the outside temp is <32*F. The manual for the XK01 is here. (They also make a CANMAX400 for newer CAN models, which goes for around $100)
-Extra accessory manuals come with the part.

Step 1 – Read the manuals. Read the manuals. Read the manuals. They are written for experienced installers, so make sure you have a basic understanding of what it's saying.
Step 2 – Familiarize yourself. Spread everything out and familiarize yourself with the playing field. Also, I marked the smaller white connectors with a black felt-tipped marker so as to keep track of what they went to.

Step 3 – Set parking light polarity. Open the top access panel on the main Viper control unit and insert the red fuse into the middle and rear connectors for a negative-polarity signal to the parking lights.

Step 4 – Change jumpers. *D2D = Horizontal. W2W = Vertical.* Check the two jumpers on the back of the Viper and rotate them 90 degrees if need be (see p.31 of Viper install manual for more info).
Step 5 – Wiring.





Solder the initial connections between the Viper control unit (“Viper”), the DLPKGM (“Module”), and the additional sensors (hereafter noted by their part number). The Viper has 6 harnesses – H1, H2, H3, R/S IN, R/S OUT (R/S = remote start), & Door Lock. I soldered all ground wires to a common 12ga wire that I grounded behind a washer against the steering column (“common ground”). I also soldered all 12V Constant inputs to one of two places, 12V Const. from 520T Battery Output gray wire (“12V Batt”) or 12V Const. from the Ignition Harness (red “B5” wire)

For my setup, the wiring is below. N/A means the wire was taped off and not used. If it seems an important feature has a “N/A” next to it, it’s b/c the bypass module likely is already controlling that.
• Viper connections
PRIMARY HARNESS
o H1/1 Red/Wh (-) Trunk Release Out N/A
o H1/2 Red (+) 12V Constant In to 12V Batt
o H1/3 Brown (+) Siren Out to red of sirens (3x - main & two piezos)

o H1/4 White/Br Light Flash Iso N/A
o H1/5 Black (-) Ground to common ground
o H1/6 Violet (+) Door Trigger N/A
o H1/7 Blue (-) Instant Trigger to Blue @ 507M and 520T
o H1/8 Green (-) Door Trigger Input to Bypass Module
o H1/9 Black/White (-) Dome Light Out N/A
o H1/10 White/Blue (-) Remote Start N/A
o H1/11 White Parking Light Out N/A
o H1/12 Orange (-) Ground-When-Armed (GWA) Output to 507M Orange GWA​
AUX HARNESS
o H2/1 Lt. Green/Blk (-) Factory Disarm Out N/A
o H2/2 Lt. Green/Wh (-) Factory Arm Out N/A
o H2/3 White/Vio Aux 1 Out
o H2/4 Violet/Blk Aux 2 Out
o H2/5 White/Blk Aux 3 Out
o H2/6 Lt. Blue 2nd Unlock Out
o H2/7 Gray/Blk Wait-to-Start (diesel only) N/A
o H2/8 Brown/Blk Factory Horn Out (Optional) to Ignition Harness (“IGN”) D4 (horn relay control)​
Heavy-Duty Harness – Letter/number designations refer to GM’s pin numbering system on the steering column ignition harness (see diagrams in 3rd post). You unplug it by unscrewing the 7mm hex-head bolt. As the bolt comes out, it pulls out the plug so go slowly and wiggle it with your hand. Also, the only wire you completely sever at IGN is C1 Yellow “Crank Voltage” starter wire. It's important to solder these connections (and preferable to solder all connections) as they carry a lot of current. T-taps, crimp connectors, and the "twist-n-tape" method won't cut it here.

Here is the proper way to prep the factory wire for soldering. Use the mini razor knife to cut a ring around a wire, then do the same 3/4" down the wire. Slice up between the two rings and then peel away 3/4" of insulation. It doesn't take much pressure to cut the insulation. Don't mess them up, you only have 1 ignition harness ;)


o H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Out & Ign 1 input sense to IGN C6 (Pink) AND DKPLGM Pink
o H3/2 Red/Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 Red/Wh
o H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange
o H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 (harness side of cut wire)
o H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 (key side of cut wire)
o H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (12V constant)
o H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 Pink/Wh

o H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o H3/9 Red/Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red
o H3/10 N/C
o Additional Relay needed for ACC 2. Splice into the following:

* Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)​

Continued in next post.
 
See less See more
8
#46 · (Edited)
IDK if the wiring is the same, so I'd follow the XK01 installation manual. As for the D2D cable, the XK01 doesn't come with one for some reason and they're not easy to get. The only place I know that advertises them is here. Also, I don't know the exact details, but DEI recently changed the D2D wire order, so that could be another issue if you get an old cable. That was one of the reasons I went with the DLPKGM which includes one.
 
#47 · (Edited)
Great writeup! I was about to pull the trigger on all this, but went to amazon and the 5901 is no longer listed. Is there an equivalent? Python model? What else should I be looking for if I dont want to spend the $400 on the newer model with color remote?

And more importantly, the beer dispenser is discontinued! :(
 
#49 ·
One safety note that I just thought I would throw in for first time installers and weekend warriors like myself (I didn't see it mentionned anywhere)... don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start fiddeling with the ingnition harness. Just disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and secure it away from the battery... it only takes a second and then you are safe to play without risk to yourself or your vehicle.

I applogize to the experienced installers because I know some are quite comfortable even with installing on a live system... but I think that for newbs like me it's one of those things that could be easily overlooked.

I am going to be installing a prostart /w an XK01 in my TB this weekend and am actually kinda looking forward to it. It seems really straightforward to me thanks to the excellent diagrams I found here:)thx). I can't believe how far these interface modules have come. Seems like pretty soon you'll be able to buy a 'plug and play' (or as I like to call it 'plug and pray') kit.

I am surprised that no one has come out with adapter kits like they have for after market stereos. I guess the starter manufacturers need to standardize their connections first. Just a matter of time I think.
 
#53 ·
I can't believe how far these interface modules have come. Seems like pretty soon you'll be able to buy a 'plug and play' (or as I like to call it 'plug and pray') kit.

I am surprised that no one has come out with adapter kits like they have for after market stereos. I guess the starter manufacturers need to standardize their connections first. Just a matter of time I think.
Already out for newer Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTwSWYHjhyo
 
#54 ·
XK01s do come with the D2D wire included. Perhaps some etailers are pulling them to turn a bit more coin on the back end.

Excellent write up and a pretty clean job for a DIY'er. Hats off to you sir ! Now just get the install to under 45mins and I'll offer you a job ! :)
 
#56 ·
Hi first off i have a 04 Envoy 4.2L. i purchased the 5901 to install. i have done alarm/remote starters in the past. My main question is about the relay...do i need it? i don't think there is even a accessory 2 in the 04 Envoy. atleast that's what bulldogsecurity.com's site shows -N/A. but they also show no accessory 2 for the rainer also....im confused. please help
 
#57 ·
There are two accessory wires, and you do need the relay. The ACC wires are Orange and Brown. To be sure, double check while you're down there but I'm 99.9% sure you have two (and thus need a relay).
 
#58 · (Edited)
I'm in the process of installing a 5701 in a 2004 Envoy. I've got a question regarding the steps listed here. So far everything has been going smooth, but I'm at the point of connecting the H3/7 Pink/Wh to the IGN C5. In the instructions, it's listed as a Pink/Wh wire. However, it is listed later as a White wire. But, the C6 wire is Pink in color and listed as Ignition 1 in the diagrams, whereas the C5 wire is listed as Off/Run/Crank Voltage.

So do I connect H3/7 to C5? Or C6?

Many thanks!
 
#59 · (Edited)
Oops - too much copy/paste going on, thanks for catching that. H3/7 goes to C5 (ignition 2), which is white not pink/wh (in my case C5 was yellowish, but whatever)
 
#61 ·
Viper 5701
followed the instructions here and in the manual, the remote start does ot want to work, you can hear the relay clicking, but it does not want to turn the vehicle over
Doors lock unlock properly
Hood pin triggers alarm
thats as far as we've gotten into testing it...
 
#62 ·
Quite a few people have had this problem initially, myself included. For me, it was an issue with the wait-to-start settings.
 
#63 · (Edited)
the only bitwriter i could getmy hands on was a v2.0 :p
So we're (Wanderson and myself) are trying to program it manually,
When we hit the RS button on the FOB, we can hear 7 clicks in the relay, leading me to believe that its stuck in manual mode.... we've tried the "easy steps" to switching to auto mode, but no luck there, what'd you have to do to get it past the wait to start issue?

Also is it supposed to roll the windows up when the doors lock too? or is that an add on?
 
#64 ·
IIRC, I changed the "Diesel Start Delay" to something other than the default "wait for input" (see pg. 43 of the manual).
 
#66 ·
If your programing without a bitriter hook up the siren or horn because its hard to do by just looking at the led. you have to switch menus really fast after the light flashes and if you wait to long it will jump to the next menu, lot easier if you go by the honk or chirp. i ran into this alot when we started installing the 5xxx series starters. hope this helps
 
#69 ·
I purchased a Bitwriter and got into the menus a bit yesterday. After getting menu 3 options set-up correctly for my vehicle, I have made some progress. I can now remote start with the key in the "On" position, but not at rest or with the key removed. Leads me to believe I need to recheck all of my H3 connections and the bypass.

FWIW, I'm using the Idatalink ADS-DLSL GM1 in W2W. Due to having a SS, I also had to hardwire the tach wire to the cluster. Any reason I should move it to the ECM or the coil?
 
#70 ·
Definitely the H3 harness...it could be the ACC wires - did you install the relay properly so the orange and brown wires get current?
 
#72 ·
OK, here are my H3 and relay connections (along with DMM readings):

o H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Pink to IGN C6 & Bypass Pink (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/2 Red/Wh (+) Ignition 2 to IGN D2 Red/Wh (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/3 Orange (+) Accessory to IGN D1 Orange (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/4 Violet (+) Starter Out to IGN Yellow C1 Harness Side (DMM: 0V unless remote started w/ key in ignition)
o H3/5 Green (+) Starter In to IGN Yellow C1 Key Side (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/6 Red (+) Ignition 1 In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 White (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
o H3/8 Pink/Blk (+) Flex Relay In N/A
o H3/9 Red/Blk (+) Accessory In to IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)
o Relay:

* Pin 85 – from H3/3 & IGN D1 Orange (DMM:12V w/ key on)
* Pin 86 – Ground
* Pin 87 – IGN ACC2 B6 Brown (DMM: 12V w/ key on)
* Pin 30 – 12V Constant IGN B5 Red (DMM: 12V constant)

A quick question that I may have missed the answer to earlier. Since these units have the flex relay on H3/8 that can be set to "Accessory 2," why not enable this option with the Bitwriter instead of the relay?
 
#73 ·
Your wires look good...maybe the relay is defective? You bring up a good point with the Flex relay - idk why I didn't use it, but I remember not knowing I needed a 2nd ACC until I was already soldering up the wires under the car...and I guess I just grabbed a relay b/c it would do what I needed. It does seem that, if set properly, you can use that for ACC2 (it seems that I don't really need H3/7 as it is now, b/c it's a relay output with no input)
 
#76 · (Edited)
OK, so here's my latest update. I did not replace the relay simply because I missed a crucial step of wiring the bypass. In D2D, the ground-when-running wire was unnecessary because it would be handled by the D2D cable into the Viper brain. However, since I'm W2W, I should have connected this to the RS Out harness on the Viper. Once I completed this, remote start works perfectly.

Only issue now is I still cannot get the vehicle to perform a normal key-operated start. I get full accessory, but no crank. Any suggestions? So close....! :crazy:
 
#78 · (Edited)
I really hope it's not a defective unit...i mean if there's 12V going into the unit from the starter input wire, it should automatically output 12V on the output wire. This allows you to start the car normally.

I would advise you double-check your connection on the starter input wire just to make sure. Plug in the harness, then probe the pin with a test light or DMM while you turn the key to start.
 
#82 ·
C1 Crank Voltage starter wire need help?

Heavy-Duty Harness – Letter/number designations refer to GM’s pin numbering system on the steering column ignition harness (see diagrams in 3rd post). You unplug it by unscrewing the 7mm hex-head bolt. As the bolt comes out, it pulls out the plug so go slowly and wiggle it with your hand. Also, the only wire you completely sever at IGN is C1 Yellow “Crank Voltage” starter wire. It's important to solder these connections (and preferable to solder all connections) as they carry a lot of current. T-taps, crimp connectors, and the "twist-n-tape" method won't cut it here.


On the C1 Yellow "Crank Voltage" which side is the "key" side and which is the "car" side? Having a little trouble which is which. Also would I have to use a multimeter if the vehicle are almost the same. Plus would I still need to use a relay if my vehicle is a 04 trailblazer with no onstar and bose system. I'm installing a Viper 5901 with the DLPKGM Module.
 
#83 ·
On the C1 Yellow "Crank Voltage" which side is the "key" side and which is the "car" side? Having a little trouble which is which. Also would I have to use a multimeter if the vehicle are almost the same. Plus would I still need to use a relay if my vehicle is a 04 trailblazer with no onstar and bose system. I'm installing a Viper 5901 with the DLPKGM Module.
Key side is the end going towards the key switch, car side is the end going into the ignition harness (towards the front of the car). A multimeter helps in troubleshooting issues, but technically isn't necessary. I would highly recommend one in general though, as they are only around $20 for a basic model. Also, if you have both ACC wires (orange and brown), then you need a relay, which would be hooked up the same way I did, regardless of Bose/Onstar. Hope that helps!
 
#85 ·
Thanks for your help. I've been studying your steps for about two weeks so I can get it done right. Again thanks for your help.
Glad to help! As you can probably gather by reading the how-to, the pre-installation preparation and figuring out exactly what to do is as important as what you do during the installation. That said, if you need any help figuring it out please let me know :)

Also, there is one typo (so far):

H3/7 Pink/Wh (+) Ignition 2 Out to IGN C5 Pink/Wh
C5 is white, not pink/white. I'll have to see if a mod can change it...
 
#86 ·
Relay wiring

Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)

How do you wire the 30amp relay? Did you use the 12 gauge wire to solder the H3/3 to pin 85 and so forth. For the gray wire on the battery back-up what wire is used to solder it to. Also are the violet H3/4 and the green H3/5 wires to be soldered to the severed yellow C1 (harness and the key side)
 
#87 ·
Pin 85 – Orange ACC wire (H3/3)
* Pin 86 – Common ground
* Pin 87 – IGN B6 Brown (Accessory 2)
* Pin 30 – 12V constant (I used IGN B5 Red)

How do you wire the 30amp relay? Did you use the 12 gauge wire to solder the H3/3 to pin 85 and so forth. For the gray wire on the battery back-up what wire is used to solder it to. Also are the violet H3/4 and the green H3/5 wires to be soldered to the severed yellow C1 (harness and the key side)
I crimped on yellow female spade tips to the 12ga wire and hooked them to the relay pins. The gray wire went to the tilt sensor and H1/2. Yes, solder the starter wires to the vehicle starter wire (H3/4 to harness side of wire and H3/5 to key switch side).
 
#89 ·
Remote start won't work

Have a problem with my remote start. Every time I try to use the remote start it says "remote start error". Also the sensor adjust wont adjust. I can open/lock the doors. Checked all the connections and they look good. Do I need a Bitwriter so I can get them to work?:confused:
 
#90 ·
Have a problem with my remote start. Every time I try to use the remote start it says "remote start error". Also the sensor adjust wont adjust. I can open/lock the doors. Checked all the connections and they look good. Do I need a Bitwriter so I can get them to work?:confused:
You don't NEED a bitwriter, but it does make it easier to program. When you hit the RS, do you get any lights on in the dash (like it's trying to start up)? Also, did you program it for Auto transmission, and turn off wait-to-start? Lastly, is the RS toggle switch on?
 
#95 ·
Remote start is working

Just to let everyone know that I got the remote strater to work. I went ahead and bought a Bitwriter on Amazon ($79.60). It was worth every penny I spent. It took alot of guess working out and made programming the viper a lot easier. I would like to thank awer25 for his step-by-step guide and his hard work. Again thank you awer25.:thx
 
#96 ·
Just to let everyone know that I got the remote strater to work. I went ahead and bought a Bitwriter on Amazon ($79.60). It was worth every penny I spent. It took alot of guess working out and made programming the viper a lot easier. I would like to thank awer25 for his step-by-step guide and his hard work. Again thank you awer25.:thx
No problem - glad to hear you got it working! What ended up being the problem?
 
#103 ·
I only used the tach wire and had it set to sense the real tach. I was told not to have the tach wire hooked up if using virtual tach.

Since it's already hooked up, try changing it to sense real tach, and if that doesn't work try cutting the tach wire and setting it to virtual tach.
 
#104 ·
Never again!!

Alright guys ive been workin at this for way to long. I have all the wires connected the way shown. The module is programed and the remote arms/disarms and locks/unlocks the doors. I am trying to get it into program mode to change the default setting of a manual transmission but no luck. Any advice?



PS. I did not buy the writer tool



ThaNKs
 
#105 · (Edited)
Alright guys ive been workin at this for way to long. I have all the wires connected the way shown. The module is programed and the remote arms/disarms and locks/unlocks the doors. I am trying to get it into program mode to change the default setting of a manual transmission but no luck. Any advice?

PS. I did not buy the writer tool

ThaNKs
Can't help, but installed one of these (well, the Python model) and everything works except the remote start. The remote says remote start error, the unit clicks 8 times, then that's it.

I think it's a problem with the menus... Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and buy the bitwriter...

Oh yea, a HUGE thanks for putting this together. Installing one for the wife for christmas and this made it SO much easier!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top