Engine oil leak at 4WD disconnect - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > 4x4 Drivetrain

4x4 Drivetrain 4x4 Repairs & Problems

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  #1  
Old 04-15-2019, 11:38 AM
KHE KHE is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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Engine oil leak at 4WD disconnect

2003 Envoy, 151300 miles.

There is an engine oil leak at the 4WD disconnect on the passenger side. Previous owner (Dad) rebuilt the 4WD disconnect and noticed the leak afterward.

It only leaks when the vehicle is driven and when it does, it leaks like a sieve.

When the disconnect was removed, it wasn't seized into the oil pan. I'm not sure how engine oil is leaking out - isn't the pass through the oil pan sealed?

A picture is attached of the leak area.
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  #2  
Old 04-18-2019, 08:42 AM
KHE KHE is offline
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The disconnect was removed last night and the problem was obvious - There was a hole in the oil pan (at about the 1:30 position). The leak path was obvious.

Upon further investigation, the longer disconnect to oil pan mounting bolts were interchanged with the shorter disconnect half bolts when the disconnect was rebuilt. When the assembly was bolted into place, the snub end of the bolt punched a hole in the pan.

I am looking at having someone TIG weld the oil pan but the cost of having the welder come out and weld the pan might be as much or more than a new pan. Rockauto has an oil pan for $141.00.

It looks like the oil pan can be removed from the vehicle after the A/C compressor is unbolted and a couple of frame cross members are removed as well as the differential. Can anyone comment on that process?
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  #3  
Old 04-18-2019, 07:33 PM
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flyboy2610 flyboy2610 is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
Summit White 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Lincoln, Ne.
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This guy replaced his oil pickup, which necessitates removing the oil pan. I think the front cover has to come off, too. This is for the 4.2L I6.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfq8wB6F82o
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  #4  
Old 05-08-2019, 04:34 PM
KHE KHE is offline
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I've been working on it a couple of evenings per week. The front cover doesn't need to come off but the front driveshaft, front differential and intermediate shaft need to be removed. The rack & pinion also needs to be lowered and the crossmember needs to be removed. The air conditioning compressor upper bolts need to be loosened and the bottom two need to be removed. I hope to get the damaged pan off this evening and let it drip overnight before cleaning the block surface in preparation for installing the "new" pan. While the pan is off, I plan to inspect the oil pickup and if it is restricted, it is going to get cleaned. I don't want to do this job again...LOL.

The junkyard sold me the wrong pan and I didn't discover it until I had it hot tanked... The pan looked the same at first glance but it did not have the low oil level sensor and the internal baffle plates. I think it was an '02 pan not an '03 pan.

They had the correct pan, it's been hot tanked and is as clean as a new pan on the inside.

I discovered a loose lower ball joint on the driver's side and that's going to get replaced while everything is apart.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:10 AM
KHE KHE is offline
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I got the pan off last night - what a pain. I will need to remove the rack and pinion to install the replacement. Are there O-rings where the lines connect to the rack or is it some sort of gasket?

At 151,000 miles, there wasn't much crud in the oil pickup screen (maybe 10% of the area had crud in it) but after reading that it can clog and result in a low oil pressure condition, I cleaned it with brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. It looks new which is good because I NEVER want to do this job again.

The information I have is to apply a 3/16" bead of GM Engine Sealant to the block. I plan to run it down the center and circle around the tapped holes so the bead would be a series of circles connected along the centerline. Is that correct?

The lower passenger ball joint has a slight bit of vertical play - nowhere near the amount the driver's side has. Considering it's torn down, I think I am going to replace both lower ball joints.
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Old 05-11-2019, 04:07 PM
KHE KHE is offline
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I got the "new" pan installed yesterday, the A/C compressor installed, front differential bolted up, and the rack & pinion installed. I need to install the crossmembers, add engine oil, etc. The front differential was a bear to get installed.
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  #7  
Old 05-16-2019, 11:25 PM
KHE KHE is offline
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I finished the job this evening and am glad to be done with it. I didn't disconnect the power steering lines from the rack - the seals were $22.00 each (2 required) and a special Kent Moore (Spent Moore...) tool was required to install them and that was $110.00 on ebay. I just disconnected the steering column from the rack and lowered the passenger side enough to clear the pan.

I discovered the lower ball joints were bad - as long as it was apart anyway I replaced them. I used AC Delco professional ball joints and they were knurled unlike the OE ball joints. I couldn't press them in with so much interference so I ground the knurl down slightly for a snug fit that could be pressed in with a ball joint press. No more clunking in the front end.

Total cost was around $180.00 for all the parts and a lot of labor (which was free with me doing the work). A hoist made the job a lot easier but it was still a bear. It would have been a lot harder using jack stands and a creeper...
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