A how to for U & L Ball Joint Replacement (and sway bar end links) - Page 15 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires > Suspension

Suspension Suspension

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  #141  
Old 03-24-2013, 03:00 PM
code422's Avatar
code422 code422 is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Imperial Blue Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
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Help!

Replaced my front swaybar links yesterday no problem. Went to replace the rears today with new Moog parts, got the left rear unbolted but it seems to be torqued and won't come out. I'm in a bind here as it is my daily driver. I've tried hammering and crowbar. Unfortunately don't have a grinder or I'd just shear the thing off. The swaybar seems tilted up in the front causing the torque. Thanks fellas!!
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  #142  
Old 02-02-2014, 10:59 AM
Crispin Crispin is offline
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2006 GMC Envoy SLE
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lower ball joint remaval tip....

I had a rag-tag set of press tools in a bucket from a Ma & Pa parts store. I did not have the cup that is relieved for the nubs that stick out of the casting on the lower control arm. The standard cup that is the proper size would not stay centered and press evenly.

I used two pieces of 3/8" square tool stock (for making metal lathe cutting tools) as spacers between the nubs or ears on the casting and the press cup. You might be able to use 3/8" square key stock. With everything in place, I snugged it all up with a ratchet before hitting it with my impact. Pressed out perfectly.

I know this has been a problem for others even using good press sets from the rental or parts store. The ears are 180 degrees apart so if you can get a pair of flat spacers in there, it will press evenly. C.
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  #143  
Old 04-11-2014, 09:27 PM
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joric joric is offline
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A good how to this... But.. If you need a press kit Harbour Frieght Tools sold me one for under $35.00 as a discontinued line.. BONUS.. The sway bar links are held in place by NYLOC nuts, that even when turned off with an 18mm wrench and a #6 hex key jammed and shredded the hex.. an easy fix on the fronts and rear passenger side use a benzo torch to melt the nylon in the nut.. nut comes off in seconds. Sadly the gas tank side i had to chisell the link off.. : After a cup o joe.. re assembly was a breeze.. Tho', one has loosened so will use some loctite in the morrow and sort that, and then take a and relax..
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  #144  
Old 11-28-2014, 04:35 PM
2SlowinTo 2SlowinTo is offline
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2007 Buick Rainier
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How many hours does it take a mechanic in a shop to replace them?

Hi,

I brought my truck in for upper and lower ball joints, water pump and thermostat.

The mechanic quoted me 4 hours. The owner charged me over 11!! and marked up the parts 60% on top of it.

He will not honour what his mechanic told me.

But before I go to BBB to complain, I want to see what would be fair.


What is a reasonable amount of hours for a shop to charge for these repairs, all done at the same time (which makes a significant cost savings)

Thanks for the input in advance.

P.S. I learned to never take their word for it, show it in writing...
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  #145  
Old 11-30-2014, 11:50 AM
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wagnewvt wagnewvt is offline
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2002 Olds Bravada
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I don't think either 4 or 11 would have been a reasonable quote - unless perhaps the mechanic was an expert, while the owner wanted to charge the book rate for each job.

Although, since you didn't mention doing the work yourself, the upper and lower ball joints themselves could easily have taken you 11 hours to do (just search the site for various problems people have had).

I've done lower ball joints on an Envoy and a Bravada; some took a day, some took all weekend (getting parts, getting loaner tools, breaking rusted nuts & bolts loose, etc, etc). Haven't done a water pump or thermostat yet though (but search the site for others' experiences).

In the future, you might want to try finding a shop that will allow you to bring the parts to them (they'll very likely charge you a higher labor rate).
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  #146  
Old 02-17-2016, 11:58 AM
the_0utsider1 the_0utsider1 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Graystone Metallic 4.2L I6 2WD
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Problems with mine.

I am trying to press out both top and bottom but neither budge. I bent in the tabs and sprayed pb blaster still no luck. I tried even using my gun (750ftlb) with no luck. Any suggestions?
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  #147  
Old 02-17-2016, 01:26 PM
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mubai mubai is offline
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Make sure your press is setup perfectly perpendicular to the ball joint. Tip: Set it up perfectly and hand tighten (no tools) then use the impact wrench.
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  #148  
Old 03-13-2016, 02:17 PM
TheCrut TheCrut is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_0utsider1 View Post
I am trying to press out both top and bottom but neither budge. I bent in the tabs and sprayed pb blaster still no luck. I tried even using my gun (750ftlb) with no luck. Any suggestions?
Hopefully you were able to get it. I found that a blowtorch helps too.

Fortunately, I live in the South and our cars don't rust. I did all 4 ball joints with a press I rented from O'Reilly, a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive, and a 22mm socket.
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  #149  
Old 03-22-2016, 03:30 AM
Soa2466 Soa2466 is offline
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2002 GMC Envoy SLT
Sandstone Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
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I was wondering if any of you could help me. I recently bought a 02 envoy the grease fitting on the upper ball joint rubbed the tire so much there's a big notch going around the tire. What would cause that?
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  #150  
Old 09-17-2018, 09:51 PM
Gptb008 Gptb008 is offline
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2008 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
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Got the lower ball joints done here's how they look

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