Reduced Engine Power Sensor - Page 8 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 5.3L V8 Engine and Drivetrain > OEM Issues

OEM Issues Original Equipment Repairs and/or Problems

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  #71  
Old 04-10-2017, 09:41 AM
Jonathan1982 Jonathan1982 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Summit White 4.2L I6 2WD
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: porter, tx
Posts: 2
P0113, p0123, p1120, p1220,P1271, p1635,P1639,P1512, please any e help my throttle body on my 03 trailblazer 4.2 won't open I have reduced engine powere and ses if it's idling about 2000 and I push the gas it goes down to about 100 if it's idling at about 1000 and I hit the gas it goes up to about 1500 also no low beam headlights and sometimes artery drain I need help please! !!
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  #72  
Old 06-21-2017, 06:11 PM
venture venture is offline
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2004 GMC Envoy SLE XL
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Yonkers, NY
Posts: 1
When put in gear SES and REP light goes on and pedal goes limp

HI, I have been reading different threads on the forum for REP lights, but my probable seems a little different. The car starts, and revs no problem with the gas pedal. As soon as I put in reverse or drive and hit the gas, the REP light goes on and the gas pedal goes limp. Before I change the pedal sensor or throttle body, does anyone have an idea on what is causing it to go limp after it is put in gear?? Thank you in advance.
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  #73  
Old 12-15-2018, 01:24 PM
crackertroy's Avatar
crackertroy crackertroy is offline
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2005 Chevy TrailBlazer LS EXT
White 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 6
JCP0521 I am having a similar problem. Where did you get your fuse box from? There are some on ebay and some in the junk yard. And did you replace the fuse box without doing a "system relearn".


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Originally Posted by JCP0521 View Post
My 2006 GMC Envoy XL Denali with about 150,000 miles stalled 2 weeks ago going through a stoplight, but all dash stuff was still working, I coasted to a stop with manual steering and brakes, the dash displayed a check engine light and a reduced engine power light. While stalled, I was cranking it occasionally for 30 minutes and then it finally started, seems like once it cooled down, it started fine and got me home. The next day, it did the same thing after 20+ min. of driving, took a little longer this time to start, about 40 min, cranked it occasionally, then it started and ran fine. Both times, it showed (2) codes when it stalled like P1682, P2176 and then (4) pending codes P0443, P0689, P1682, P2176. but once it restarted, codes disappeared like nothing happened. The 3rd time it happened and it took over an hour for it to start and run. All the time it would crank strong, just not fire up till it seemed to cool down. I read forums for days, I thought I had it fixed when I bought a crankshaft sensor, took 2 hours to replace it with big hands, fired it up and it died 30 min. later, once The engine bay heated up, I removed the Throttle Body and cleaned it thoroughly, removed the air cleaned and blew it with compressed air, hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and started the engine, the fuel pressure stayed around 60psi, and then it stalled 30 min later, but the pressure never dropped, even when it stalled. I wiggled all the circuit breakers, switched some around that were the same, no fix, I removed my Fuse Box as someone else had posted, it looked perfect to me on the surface and underneath with the big plugs unplugged, not one blister or burn mark, I looked it over meticulously and seen nothing wrong with it, but I took a chance and ordered a new one for $275 from a popular site on the net, guess what, problem fixed. I can't believe it. I've seen so many people spend hundreds of dollars on sensors, pcm's and dealerships, but for me it was a fuse box that looked to be in good shape. I hope this post helps someone else, I wanted to post my fix and error codes to save someone else the money and downtime.
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