Hi all! I posted this in another thread a couple days ago but it did not get the responces I had hoped for,...so I started a new thread. Sorry if I'm asking questions that have already been answered here. Since most of the questions concerning over heating when towing are asked from people who live in cooler climates I think my questions here are valid, so please allow me.
I was pulling my '20 ski boat yesterday through the valley here in Arizona. Not sure what the boat weighs but I'm guessing about 3600 pounds including trailer. Temp outside was ~107 degrees and I did have the air on. I pulled it up and down a few hills (not more than 2 miles long each) and across straight flat highway a total of ~75 miles. The temp stayed right around 210 for most of the trip. About 10 miles from home, taking off from a traffic light I got down on it a little hard to keep up with traffic. The temp climbed to about 225 or so and stayed there almost until I got home.
This is an '03 TB LXT with 5.3 and 70K miles.
I recently did a complete coolant flush using a mixture of vinegar and distilled water to flush with. I then did 4 rinse cycles using 100% distilled water (driving vehicle between each rinse). I finally refilled the system with a mixture of 1.5 gallons of "Peak Long Life -mix w/anything", one bottle of Water Wetter and the rest distilled water. My thermostat was replaced last fall and so was my fan clutch and belt. I believe my cooling system is in good condition,... or I did so until reading this thread.
Is it possible with the high ambient temp, towing and the fact that I put the hammer down a little that I've just reach the max capacity of my cooling system? Or do you guys think I too have a problem? A question about fan clutches,....Is the stock GM one the best to buy or is there an aftermarket one that's better? Isn't the fan speed monitored by the ECM/PCM? If so,...how much under speed would set a code? Has anyone tried using an extra electric pusher fan in front on their radiator? Would this impede airflow across the radiator at highway speeds? If I have reached the capacity of my cooling system is there an aftermarket heavy duty radiator available for these vehicles? Mine did come from the factory with the towing package.
I know I don't have sludge in my radiator. I've flushed it very thoroughly as I've indicated here. I've also checked for this many times. Is sludge the only issue with mixing coolants? Reading the literature on the jug of Dex-cool indicates that it is ethylene-glycol based just like most of the "green" stuff. The additives and corrosion inhibitors are what's different,....so why would it be any better of a coolant?
One final question,...is my cooling system the reverse flow type? This would stand to reason since the thermostat housing connects directly to the lower radiator hose.
Sorry for this being so long winded. Just trying to grasp an understanding of all of this. Many thanks to all who reply!
I was pulling my '20 ski boat yesterday through the valley here in Arizona. Not sure what the boat weighs but I'm guessing about 3600 pounds including trailer. Temp outside was ~107 degrees and I did have the air on. I pulled it up and down a few hills (not more than 2 miles long each) and across straight flat highway a total of ~75 miles. The temp stayed right around 210 for most of the trip. About 10 miles from home, taking off from a traffic light I got down on it a little hard to keep up with traffic. The temp climbed to about 225 or so and stayed there almost until I got home.
This is an '03 TB LXT with 5.3 and 70K miles.
I recently did a complete coolant flush using a mixture of vinegar and distilled water to flush with. I then did 4 rinse cycles using 100% distilled water (driving vehicle between each rinse). I finally refilled the system with a mixture of 1.5 gallons of "Peak Long Life -mix w/anything", one bottle of Water Wetter and the rest distilled water. My thermostat was replaced last fall and so was my fan clutch and belt. I believe my cooling system is in good condition,... or I did so until reading this thread.
Is it possible with the high ambient temp, towing and the fact that I put the hammer down a little that I've just reach the max capacity of my cooling system? Or do you guys think I too have a problem? A question about fan clutches,....Is the stock GM one the best to buy or is there an aftermarket one that's better? Isn't the fan speed monitored by the ECM/PCM? If so,...how much under speed would set a code? Has anyone tried using an extra electric pusher fan in front on their radiator? Would this impede airflow across the radiator at highway speeds? If I have reached the capacity of my cooling system is there an aftermarket heavy duty radiator available for these vehicles? Mine did come from the factory with the towing package.
I know I don't have sludge in my radiator. I've flushed it very thoroughly as I've indicated here. I've also checked for this many times. Is sludge the only issue with mixing coolants? Reading the literature on the jug of Dex-cool indicates that it is ethylene-glycol based just like most of the "green" stuff. The additives and corrosion inhibitors are what's different,....so why would it be any better of a coolant?
One final question,...is my cooling system the reverse flow type? This would stand to reason since the thermostat housing connects directly to the lower radiator hose.
Sorry for this being so long winded. Just trying to grasp an understanding of all of this. Many thanks to all who reply!