Rebuilding the 4L60E - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > 4x4 Drivetrain

4x4 Drivetrain 4x4 Repairs & Problems

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2008, 12:07 AM
gmcman's Avatar
gmcman gmcman is offline
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2002 GMC Envoy SLT
Onyx Black 4.2L I6 4X4
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Rebuilding the 4L60E

I really hope I didn't jinx myself with this.

Currently at 98K, I know the inevitable is coming....hopefully a long wait. Having messed with a TH350 or two, i'm sortof familiar with the guts, I understand the 4L60 is a different animal. When it happens, I really don't want to fork out a big 4-digit repair bill and seeing a rebuild kit from TCI is under $400 with the improved "sun shell", I figure a bit of labor is worth it.

Still havent decided if I will take on this task which is why I ask...what should I be looking for once inside? Will I need to replace servos, solenoids, other parts than the fibers and metals, or is that based upon inspection?

Is it a simple (bad choice of words) removal of pump, then all is right there or do I need to replace parts in the valve body as well?

For those that have done this or do this on a regular basis..if i'm going to keep this vehicle, what is my best course of action. I feel i'm mech inclined enough for this unless it involves classroom training or a trained eye over my shoulder.

Please recommend books as well.

I'm careful, meticulous, have rebuilt a few motors....(Poncho V8's), and have a few cases of brew on hand .

Any help greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 05-15-2008, 12:27 AM
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grazzhopper1111 grazzhopper1111 is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Summit White 4.2L I6 4X4
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hey cheif

the 4l60e has been in most of the gm trucks since i think the early 90s. my old 94 z28 had one and when i blew it up the first time i just went to the junk yard and got one out of an s-10 ( my reason for the s-10 was it was light and thus may be not as much stress, asumeing of course) and that cost me like 150 bucks plus time and effort. i dont know if you could do the same for the trail blazer but if you can get a trans for the same price go for it,
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2008, 01:43 AM
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fife2001 fife2001 is offline
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I am interested in this as well.

In general how hard is it to drop the transmission and install a new one. Is it just bolt off then bolt on with a really heavy part?
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  #4  
Old 05-15-2008, 02:48 AM
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TrailBlazzin TrailBlazzin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fife2001 View Post
I am interested in this as well.

In general how hard is it to drop the transmission and install a new one. Is it just bolt off then bolt on with a really heavy part?
it's not easy but not impossible for a diy, just time consuming, i did mine in my driveway on jack stands, you'd be surprised how high you must go to be able to have enough clearance to slide it out. drain the fluids and then its a matter of removing the drive shaft(s), transfer case, support, cooler lines, linkage, and then a few more bolts on the converter and bell-housing and its out, i also removed the section of exhaust but can't remember if it was necessary, I'm sure I'm missing some things but i know i got most of it..
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2008, 01:51 PM
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BUC NASTY BUC NASTY is offline
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or better yet get a RPM transmission.
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  #6  
Old 05-16-2008, 12:26 AM
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gmcman gmcman is offline
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Clearance is a big issue, definately get or rent a tranny jack.....really helps to manipulate it back in place. I may even need to remove the running boards if I do this in my driveway.

Pulling the tranny is the easy part, it's when you get it open and you hear a "click" "ping" as a part bounces off your garage wall.

We used to use a wooden broom handle to keep everything centered or to place the insides where we needed and it went through the center of the trans...cannot remember if we removed the tail housing..been a while.

If anyone has thorough pics that would help also.
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  #7  
Old 09-14-2018, 09:50 AM
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Linaic Linaic is offline
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thanks for this info!
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  #8  
Old 09-14-2018, 12:55 PM
miketexas miketexas is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmcman View Post
I really hope I didn't jinx myself with this.

Currently at 98K, I know the inevitable is coming....hopefully a long wait. Having messed with a TH350 or two, i'm sortof familiar with the guts, I understand the 4L60 is a different animal. When it happens, I really don't want to fork out a big 4-digit repair bill and seeing a rebuild kit from TCI is under $400 with the improved "sun shell", I figure a bit of labor is worth it.

Still havent decided if I will take on this task which is why I ask...what should I be looking for once inside? Will I need to replace servos, solenoids, other parts than the fibers and metals, or is that based upon inspection?

Is it a simple (bad choice of words) removal of pump, then all is right there or do I need to replace parts in the valve body as well?

For those that have done this or do this on a regular basis..if i'm going to keep this vehicle, what is my best course of action. I feel i'm mech inclined enough for this unless it involves classroom training or a trained eye over my shoulder.

Please recommend books as well.

I'm careful, meticulous, have rebuilt a few motors....(Poncho V8's), and have a few cases of brew on hand .

Any help greatly appreciated.
I have rebuilt hundreds of them and can help. What needs to be replaced are of course all the friction clutches and the band, along with any steel clutches that are burnt. Most likely the 3-4 steel plates will be burnt. Also, as mentioned the sun shell should be replaced. As far as the solenoids, over the years I have seen few go bad, but it cannot hurt to replace them. When I rebuilt mine I replaced both planetary gears with rebuilt units and did not replace any electronics. The torque converter should be replaced as well.

All the hard parts, pump, clutch housings, gears, etc. will need to be inspected closely for wear. Make sure the individual gears in a each planetary set are not chipped and do not have any wobble when you try to move them sideways which would indicate it needs to be replaced. Check the internal gears the planetary gears turn inside for chipped or broken teeth as well. Also the reverse input drum should be checked with a straight edge to make certain the area where the 2-4 band rides is still flat.

You will need some special tools for this job, mainly spring compressors, one for the reverse input housing and the input housing, as shown below.



And one for the low reverse clutch piston in the bottom of the case, as shown here:



These tools are needed to get the pistons out of the clutch housings so you can change the seals which should be changed. You can do it without these tools but it ain't easy! Also you may want to consider replacing the forward sprag, shown here:



The sprag resides in this assembly:




The sprag allows one of the splined elements to rotate one way and not the other, like a ten speed bike hub that when pedaled forward turns the chain to pull the bike forward but freewheels if pedaled backwards. Do NOT put this part in backwards! It can be done and you will have to pull the trans back out if you do.

Also you may need special tools to replace the sealing rings on the pump and input shaft and and some drivers to replace some bushings. I highly recommend that you put this shift kit in and only this one. it eliminates many problems.



You will need about 12 quarts of fluid when done and also be sure to soak all the clutches and the band in ATF before installing them. Let me know if you need help.
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  #9  
Old 09-14-2018, 03:08 PM
mddombrowski mddombrowski is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LT EXT
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@miketexas:

What brand kit / components do you recommend? What brands do you avoid?
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  #10  
Old 09-14-2018, 03:47 PM
miketexas miketexas is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mddombrowski View Post
@miketexas:

What brand kit / components do you recommend? What brands do you avoid?
I haven't particularly avoided any. Most kits and parts I have used come from transmission specialty stores like Transtar industries, located in Dallas and Fort Worth TX. You can order parts shipped UPS, but be warned, getting some wrong parts shipped to you is not uncommon. For this reason I almost always go in person to get the parts even though it's a good drive.

https://www.transtar1.com

In order to do this trans "right", depending on what is actually wrong with it, expect to spend between 3 and 7 hundred dollars on parts on the average. When I did mine the parts outlay was about 800.00. But you can fix them cheaper if you are of a mind too.
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