07' Envoy Front Axle Disconnect - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 5.3L V8 Engine and Drivetrain > 4x4 Drivetrain

4x4 Drivetrain 4x4 Repairs & Problems

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Old 03-26-2018, 09:49 AM
Humanshield Humanshield is offline
Junior Member
2003 GMC Envoy SLT
Moondust Metallic 4.2L I6 AWD
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Minerva, OH
Posts: 4
07' Envoy Front Axle Disconnect


So this weekend my buddy and I put my 07 Envoy on a rack and replaced the Steering Rack/Ball joints/Tie rod Ends. While having the CV-shaft out and the steering knuckle off we noticed a lot of play in the passenger side CV shaft. Looks like it's a bad Front axle disconnect from what I have read. For now it is back together. But I need to get the parts and get it fixed as well.

So, The axle disconnect itself seems to vary wildly in price from Local parts stores/Amazon/Ebay etc.

Also, some places seem to list a 4wd and an AWD option.

So. First I need to figure out exactly what I need. I have an 07 envoy SLT with a selector switch for Auto, 4wd and Lo. Also, Some seem to include the black actuator and some seem to not. As my 4wd worked this winter I assume my actuator is still ok. (right?)

Also, what else will I need/Should I get/do at the same time. Looks like 3 bolts hold this on. But some mention using a wedge to remove it? Can someone with some experience shed some light on this. Also, I noticed that compared to the drivers side. the CV shaft seemed fairly dry when it came out. I put it back in with some gear lube. But is there another issue going on that needs addressed? I though maybe I would change out the front diff fluid at the same time. Any insight would be helpful.
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Old 03-26-2018, 01:35 PM
EnvoyBoy2004's Avatar
EnvoyBoy2004 EnvoyBoy2004 is offline
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2004 GMC Envoy SLT
Graphite Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: NY
Posts: 2,072
The AWD is used on the Buick Rainier and SAAB X9-7 versions. The 4x4 is for trailblazer and Envoy. The difference being that the AWD version doesn't have an actuator, the front drive is always connected.

One of the downfalls of the disconnect assembly is the lack of lubrication. It is highly recommended when working on or replacing the disconnect assembly, apply a synthetic grease very generously to the assembly.

The removal of the disconnect sometimes can be difficult since the assembly almost welds itself to the oilpan. Some people have had to literally break the assembly into pieces to remove it.

Check YouTube for videos on replacement of the disconnect.
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:32 AM
Chocking41 Chocking41 is offline
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2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Summit White 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 5
Same issue with disconnect

Looking at the exact same issue on my 02..any luck on tearing into it?????....Certainly seems pretty doable, but before I begin I'm worried about people talking about the housing darn near welding itself to oil pan...That's any issue I'm not waiting to run into in the garage....

Any advice or tips..

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Old 01-17-2019, 02:13 AM
711adrenaline 711adrenaline is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
I literally just finished taking my disconnect off my 08 envoy tonight...the third night of working on it, haha. I can say it is not an easy task. Mine was stuck in there pretty good. I tapped on the top of it with a small hammer (not much room), and got underneath (might have to take a skid plate off, mine is gone lol) and noticed a place to wedge a large flat head screwdriver from below. Pounded on this with big hammer enough to get a tiny gap between mounting bolt holes and the oil pan. This is where I should have got out and tapped it back into place before continuing I think. Anyways I worked between tapping it from the side with a hammer and trying to wedge from below. This was a fairly difficult process but. I finally achieve a small enough gap in the top/front mounting hole to begin hammering a screwdriver/wedge in there (Hope i didn't ruin the mounting surface too much and it hold good when done). Working back and forth between every place to hammer a wedge into for awhile, the darned thing finally fell out. Hooray! not. I then realized I had broke it off, leaving the part stuck inside the oil pan. This is why I say I should have tapped it back in before continuing. I let it bind in there, when I should have backed it off and just worked it around to loosen some corrosion before prying/wedging too hard. Hopefully this info will help prevent you from the same horrible mistake I made (who knows if I could have got mine out without breaking it anyways though..).

Anywho, I then went in and drilled holes all the way through the casing. Had to be careful not to ruin the shaft/outside bore of the oil pan. However drilling straight in from the side, you don't have to worry too much about going too far, because the drill catches when you hit the end of the aluminum casing, and then if you keep going the seal will stop you from drilling into the oil pan. I drilled some holes, got a bigger and bigger bit until I was as close as possible to the oil pan/shaft without hurting it. Then I used a die grinder to grind as much of the casing away as possible (again, very carefully). Finally I had it mostly all ground away. Then I did the same thing about an inch away in the casing. Then I was able to hammer my screwdriver from underneath, on the lip of broken aluminum, to break a chunk of it out. Then I was able to move it around, and with a second chunk out I got it loose enough to grab with my hand and pull out. Success.

I really hope you don't have the trouble I did, and like I said if you get the bottom to move out, hit it back in before trying again to loosen it up, and hopefully it will wiggle free eventually. If not, you now have some insight/pointers at least. This sight has helped me fix a ton of things on this thing in the two months I've had it (reminds me why I'm a Ford guy, hehe). Without it I would still be lost in frustration (still am a little obviously lol).
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Old 01-17-2019, 02:16 AM
711adrenaline 711adrenaline is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Afterthought. I thought my CV shaft was ok and all the play was from the completely missing seal/bearing it rides on. I was wrong, there is some play in the joint, and the end is badly worn, so I am waiting on that part now that the darned disconnect is finally out. Also be careful not to pry/wedge too much on the oil pan, as I have heard it's very possible to crack or break that from prying too hard.
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Old 01-17-2019, 02:24 AM
711adrenaline 711adrenaline is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
I just realized this post is almost a year old...oops lol
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:46 PM
mizestang mizestang is offline
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2008 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Forest Lake, MN
Posts: 43
This just happened to me this weekend. Been trying to get the back of that housing out and can't do it. Ugh!
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