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  #21  
Old 04-18-2009, 02:44 AM
blacktrail04 blacktrail04 is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
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I have an 04 Trailblazer, and I've had a similar problem: up until two weeks ago, my rear windshield wiper worked 100% of the time. Now, the wiper arm works like it's supposed to be, but the washer fluid doesn't come out when it's supposed to. And when I lifted my tailgate to investigate, there was wiper fluid all on the jamb (where the gate locks into the car) like it had all leaked on there. I'm gonna try and take the plastic stuff off (the interior vinyl stuff) to see what's up next weekend.

Suggestions?
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  #22  
Old 05-07-2009, 06:24 PM
mlemyou mlemyou is offline
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Another rear wiper not working

I have the same issue in that the rear wiper does not work. Didn't try the washer. My hatch electric lock doesn't work either. Both started at the same time and in fact the remote will not function despite a new battery.
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  #23  
Old 05-07-2009, 08:06 PM
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the roadie the roadie is offline
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Originally Posted by mlemyou View Post
I have the same issue in that the rear wiper does not work. Didn't try the washer. My hatch electric lock doesn't work either. Both started at the same time and in fact the remote will not function despite a new battery.
The receiver for the remote unlock is the rear liftgate control module, which also controls the other functions you have problems with. It could be that its fuse (#3 in the rear fuse block) has gone, or a wire in the harness going to the rear liftgate module is bad. They often break over time due to flexing near the hinge where the liftgate opens. Check out the wiring hidden by the rubber boot.

If your rear washer pump works, that's entirely controlled by other circuits, and not the rear liftgate module.



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  #24  
Old 05-08-2009, 09:37 PM
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Menthol Menthol is offline
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My rear wiper works, the license plate light works and I think the rear defrost works (too warm to really tell) Fuses 3 and 6 under the rear seat are good and the radio stays on until I open the door. My problem is the liftgate or glass will not lock with/without the remote. All other doors lock but on the lifgate I can open with the lever or the glass can open by pushing on the button. Is this the wire harness issue or the liftgate module shot ?

Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 05-08-2009, 10:13 PM
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... I can open with the lever or the glass can open by pushing on the button. Is this the wire harness issue or the liftgate module shot ?.
Could be liftgate solenoid or mechanical lever issues as well. I'd remove the liftgate internal cover and just look closely as you use the remote keyfob.



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  #26  
Old 05-09-2009, 10:48 AM
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Menthol Menthol is offline
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Could be liftgate solenoid or mechanical lever issues as well. I'd remove the liftgate internal cover and just look closely as you use the remote keyfob.
So once the rear wipers and the plates light are working I can eliminate the LCM, correct? and that means no broken wire in the harness?

I know you said as well but I would like to narrow it down as much as possible, if you can let me know.
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  #27  
Old 05-09-2009, 12:18 PM
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So once the rear wipers and the plates light are working I can eliminate the LCM, correct? and that means no broken wire in the harness?
Not quite. The license plate lights are powered by separate wiring used by the marker lights, and don't go near the LGM. The rear wiper working is a good thing, since it means that serial data communication to the module is OK. Also if the defogger wires heat up that's also proof that serial communication is OK.

The LGM still controls the liftgate latch assembly, which has only two wires in its connector. To latch it, the LGM puts ground on one and 12V on the other. To unlatch, it reverses the polarity. So your problem could be in the LGM putting those voltages (from its connector C2, pins 6 & 8) into the short harness that goes to the liftgate latch assembly, or it could be a bad latch assy, or the latch assy could be hung up or need lubrication.

Do you hear any clicking from inside the liftgate when you try to unlock or lock the vehicle?

I don't see any way to proceed at this point other than take the panels off the inside of the liftgate, and poke about with a meter on the latch assy connector. There's a tiny chance that one of the three 12V power feeds to the LGM is broken, but the schematics are not entirely clear on which power feed controls which function of the LGM. There are only three of them, and they are all orange wires, so it's easy to probe.

If you're not comfortable or experienced with electrical troubleshooting with a meter, you should just buy some excellent beer and dangle it as bait to attract a friend who is.



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  #28  
Old 05-09-2009, 12:30 PM
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Menthol Menthol is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the roadie View Post
Not quite. The license plate lights are powered by separate wiring used by the marker lights, and don't go near the LGM. The rear wiper working is a good thing, since it means that serial data communication to the module is OK. Also if the defogger wires heat up that's also proof that serial communication is OK.

The LGM still controls the liftgate latch assembly, which has only two wires in its connector. To latch it, the LGM puts ground on one and 12V on the other. To unlatch, it reverses the polarity. So your problem could be in the LGM putting those voltages (from its connector C2, pins 6 & 8) into the short harness that goes to the liftgate latch assembly, or it could be a bad latch assy, or the latch assy could be hung up or need lubrication.

Do you hear any clicking from inside the liftgate when you try to unlock or lock the vehicle?

I don't see any way to proceed at this point other than take the panels off the inside of the liftgate, and poke about with a meter on the latch assy connector. There's a tiny chance that one of the three 12V power feeds to the LGM is broken, but the schematics are not entirely clear on which power feed controls which function of the LGM. There are only three of them, and they are all orange wires, so it's easy to probe.

If you're not comfortable or experienced with electrical troubleshooting with a meter, you should just buy some excellent beer and dangle it as bait to attract a friend who is.
I can hear the clicking, I did take off the panel and everything looks well lubricated by the latch assembly. I usually spray and grease them before winter. I will follow up by testing voltages, see what I get and report back.

Thanks.
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  #29  
Old 05-09-2009, 06:43 PM
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Menthol Menthol is offline
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Took the panel off and checked all 3 orange wires got 12.7 v. Check continuity on the wires and they were good. So I climbed in and start locking/unlocking with the remote and noticed the switch on top (where the lead is) is try to move a lever of some sort but I couldn't see. I pulled the complete unit off and the arm the switch was trying to move was rusted tight (where arrow is).
Everything is back to normal now, thank you Roadie for the tips.


http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x...eizedLatch.jpg
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  #30  
Old 10-18-2009, 06:27 PM
p_wheatstraw p_wheatstraw is offline
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Sorry to bring a thread back from the dead, but I am also suffering from rear wiper failure and cannot seem to find the source. I just bought a 2002 LTZ, and the PO said that the rear wiper hadn't worked for awhile.

I have checked fuses #3 & #19 in the rear fuse panel, and they both appear to be good.

I did not see any frayed or broken wires in the loom running through the top of the hatch.

I did find that the hose for the rear washer appeared to have popped loose right near the wiper motor, which may explain why some of the metal clips holding the trim on were rusty. I put that back together and it seems to be spraying properly now.

I noticed a fair amount of corrosion on the wiper shaft, which I cleaned up, but that made no difference.

The motor itself looked to be in OK shape, and I have 12V on the orange wire in the wiper motor harness, but the green wire (pin E I think) is always at ground. Vehicle on/off, wiper control on/off makes no difference here.

Since my keyless entry works and I think my defroster does as well (it gets 12V when the defrost setting is on) I don't think the problem is with the LGM.

Any thoughts?
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