Front brakes binding slowly even after replacing it with new calipers, pads & rotors - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Brakes, Suspension, Wheels and Tires > Brakes

Brakes Performance Brake Upgrades

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2015, 12:33 PM
babyther5 babyther5 is offline
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2004 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Black 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Westbrook, ME
Posts: 7
Front brakes binding slowly even after replacing it with new calipers, pads & rotors

Thanks to everyone who posts here - I have learned quite a bit from searching the forum & appreciate the information shared herein.

I have a situation which needs some guidance though & hoping for some help.

I replaced the front caliper assembly, pads & rotors this week - truck has 208,600 miles. The reason for the changeover was regular maintenance, but, I also recently experienced binding at the front brakes. The binding doesn't start until mid-travel though & the brake pedal starts out a little mushy and stiffens as I use the brakes in my regular driving. The inner pads on both the front were completely worn down to nothing and the outer pads barely used - they look like they could be installed and used again, lol..

I feel comfortable that my work was accurate and complete in replacing all of the hardware, I definitely throw thanks out there to the forum posters for their information on bleeding the brake line

My new brake hardware was smoking when I got to my office yesterday, I had to rev the engine up to 4k/5k on the tach just to get to 50 mph & I don't want to ruin the new brakes, and I definitely don't want to ruin tires, transmission, etc. Hoping someone can guide me into diagnosing what is causing the binding to happen slowly as I drive. Is it possible that the master cylinder needs to be replaced? Maybe there's a software/ABS module that needs to be replaced? I am a newbie at most mechanical issues, but, learn by doing and like to do the work myself where it makes sense.
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  #2  
Old 09-04-2018, 09:58 PM
dns1 dns1 is offline
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2005 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Graphite Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: syracuse
Posts: 7
05 tb front hanging up as well

im having the same issue doesn't seem like anyone knows why
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:58 PM
Aking Aking is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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Same here. Any thoughts or ideas to what's causing this are greatly appreciated. And if someone has the answer on how to fix the issue, you'd be a life saver if you'd be kind enough to share.
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:00 AM
astroracer astroracer is offline
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2008 GMC Envoy Denali
Carbon Black Metallic 5.3L V8 4X4
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Mid-Michigan
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Check the flexible brake lines. The rubber will break down and allow the line to expand when the pedal is applied. They can also "collapse", keeping a small amount of pressure on the pads even when your foot is not on the pedal.
Mark
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:30 PM
Jaydur Jaydur is offline
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Brakes dragging

I still have same problem even after I replaced the hoses on the front. Brakes are fine for first five miles (approximately) and the start heating up again. Still waiting on a resolution.

Jaydur
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Old 11-24-2018, 12:16 PM
Jaydur Jaydur is offline
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Brakes

I was having the same issues with my 2003 trailblazer. My problem was that the brakes had worn down to metal on metal. Brake shavings from the worn down pads had gotten into the calipers. I also replaced the brake hoses because the fluid was black while bleeding. Also I never bleed by pushing fluid back up into the ABS pump.
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2018, 09:12 AM
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TB-Al TB-Al is offline
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2007 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Graystone Metallic 4.2L I6 2WD
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Pleasure Island, Al.
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If the fluid was black then I would guess you have black fluid in the antilock brake system and that is where the pressure is coming from. You could try very hard braking from speed on a slick surface to open the antilock system and flush out some of the fluid. Then replace all the brake fluid again. That could be dangerous if the antilock isn't working or is sticking. A better solution would be using a tech II to open the system while flushing.
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