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Go Back   Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum > 2002 - 2009 TrailBlazer/Envoy Tech > 02-09 Vortec 4.2L I-6 Engine and Drivetrain > Air Induction

Air Induction Performance Air Intake/Air Induction Modifications

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  #41  
Old 08-16-2009, 10:55 PM
pjaneiro's Avatar
pjaneiro pjaneiro is offline
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2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Forest Green Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Montreal, Quebec, CANADA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05 bTlRaAzIeLr View Post
i know im just a new guy on here but i have been trying to do research on a few things for my trailblazer but, this ^ statement is so true. well said, well said!
I can honnestly say that the oem would probably give you more mpg, I know i saw a drop on my custom cai, and some otehr members here have chimed in stating the same with the k&n, so a cai for our truck will not show a difference or a significant one
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Custom K&N Cai,Custom cherrybomb dual exhaust,PCMFORLESS TUNE
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  #42  
Old 08-22-2009, 06:56 PM
Toadz's Avatar
Toadz Toadz is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Silver 4.2L I6 4X4
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Location: Mesa, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal View Post
I took measurements after installing mine (didn't do any before the change). IAT measurent and coolant temp were taken by monitoring a scan tool. 1st IAT is with the tubing Insulated using "Pipe Wrap" 2nd was bare tubing.
Parameter
Coolant temp 185
DIC ambient temp - IAT Ins - IAT uns

20 min. In driveway - 84 - 125 - 130
20 min. [COLOR=Black]stop and go[/COLOR] not exceed 45 - 85 - 104 - 105
20 min. freeway between 65 to70 - 85 - 93 - 97

From the measurements it can be seen that at idle and city driving the intake air is from a hot engine compartment. That's why I said earlier and agreed that there is little to no benefit without also incorporating a "RAM Air"system.
Very true. Someone mentioned that the GM engineers designed the intake for cost, not performance/economy. It's true that vehicle design is greatly hindered by cost but the end result isn't always a failure.
Take for example the new ZR1 Corvette's intake. Ram-air intake system with a "plastic, rubbery restrictive tube" and not one of the "high performance, high flowing metal tubes" that you find on eBay and on all the rice rockets, err, "fast" cars. This car was purely designed to go fast and perform well without being hindered by cost.
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  #43  
Old 05-18-2010, 06:51 PM
P07r0457 P07r0457 is offline
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2003 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Graystone Metallic 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PANGGOY View Post
I will always believe in dyno sheets...

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...6/kndynoI6.jpg

unless someone shows me that they have an intake that will give a better result, i will stick with my K&N

btw, if someone will claim that K&N fabricated this dyno sheet, try to sue them for false advertising or something
My issue is that those dyno charts always start at around 3,500 rpm. I know people say it's hard to get results below that level, but I don't buy that excuse.

95% of my driving is below 3,500 rpm... Normally I'm around 2k. I think there is a LOSS of power down low with those aftermarket intakes -- that's why they leave that data off their charts.
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  #44  
Old 05-31-2010, 11:57 AM
Fishsticks Fishsticks is offline
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2002 Locked Up Chevy TrailBlazer LTZ - Black w/
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P07r0457 View Post
My issue is that those dyno charts always start at around 3,500 rpm. I know people say it's hard to get results below that level, but I don't buy that excuse.
Quasi-necro thread.


On the GMT360 platform...it's most likely due to the heavy torque management that the I6 has. The throttle blades will not actually open fully until past 3000 RPM on a stock tune, foot to floor or not. On many "performance" platforms, engines generally start making power above 3000-3500 RPM. If you are looking for off-idle torque, you don't buy a CAI. You buy a bigger displacement engine, or you re-gear.

(Or, if you own a TrailVoy, you get the torque management programmed out)

On "Dyno Sheets" posted by manufacturers: You folks understand that a lot of these advertised "gains" are on motors that have supporting mods, correct? That exhaust system that gives you 30hp? Not without headers, intake and other goodies. Just because the dyno sheet says "stock" doesn't mean there isn't an unbolted exhaust or something else tricky going on.

SHORT VERSION: I'm not pointing at any specific companies, but do your own dyno testing before assuming a certain amount of "gain."

LONG VERSION:

Extreme (hypothetical) example: I build a monster heads/cam/exhaust motor that dynos say... 500 wheel HP with exposed throttle plate. Great. Now say I use the stock intake for my body style that happens to be 1" in diameter. Wow, suckage huh? I just dyno'd maybe 250 wheel HP with it on. So K&N comes along with a 4" intake for my body style. WOOHOO, back to making big power again. Let's say I dyno 485 wheel hp now with the new intake. That's a 235hp difference. So K&N gives me a free intake in exchange for using my car/truck as a "tester" and posts before and after dyno results.

Do you think a bone stock motor is going to get 235hp from this mod? Nope.

(Again, not pointing fingers specifically at K&N)
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  #45  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:23 PM
Fishsticks Fishsticks is offline
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2002 Locked Up Chevy TrailBlazer LTZ - Black w/
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(Feet glued to soapbox)

SHORT VERSION: Material really doesn't matter as much as you think it does.

LONG VERSION:

On aluminum vs plastic: ALL intake systems will soak heat after time. Aluminum will do it faster because, well, it's ALUMINUM. Aluminum and copper are two of the most used materials in heat sinks because they conduct heat really well. BUT, this simply means an aluminum tube will heatsoak faster (usually) than a plastic tube. Eventually they'll both get hot.

Go to a drag strip. Ignore the ricers. Watch people with actual effort into their ride, be it big displacement, forced induction or both. Many of them will do everything they can to cool down their intake tract between passes. Pushing your car up the staging lane (engine off) and bags of ice are two common tricks. Before I get mangled by someone, yes I realize not everyone buys into the icing the intake thing. I don't personally, but it's for illustration here.

"Hot Lapping" refers to hitting the staging lanes immediately after making a pass. It's a good way to have a disappointing next pass. Why? Heat soak.
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  #46  
Old 07-31-2010, 02:57 AM
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acer99 acer99 is offline
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2006 Chevy TrailBlazer LT
Summit White 4.2L I6 4X4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P07r0457 View Post
My issue is that those dyno charts always start at around 3,500 rpm. I know people say it's hard to get results below that level, but I don't buy that excuse.

95% of my driving is below 3,500 rpm... Normally I'm around 2k. I think there is a LOSS of power down low with those aftermarket intakes -- that's why they leave that data off their charts.
Yes, most driving is done below 3k RPM. but why do you need extra power while going down the freeway with the cruise set. You need the power when passing/accelerating, which is done around 3,500 or higher RPM (e.g. GMs Displacement on Demand, which deactivated half the cylinders while cruising. Proving you don't need extra power while at a sustained moderate speed.)

Why has no one said this in the 6 months this post has been open? I dont mean to offend anyone but geez people.

One other thing. Dont buy so much into the K&N dyno sheet. Anything will gain power when you take a bird nest out of the air box and replace it with a new K&N CAI. Just because its stock doesnt means its not dirty.

That is all! I'm done. Thanks for reading.
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  #47  
Old 09-27-2012, 08:25 PM
Trail8lazer Trail8lazer is offline
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2002 Chevy TrailBlazer LS
Custom Paint 4.2L I6 4X4
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sacramento, California
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My Custom CAI Ram Air DIY Protype Steup!

The stock K&N cone was too small so I added a bigger less restrictive cone from Spectre. I hollowed out the head lights so cold air could ram through them. I cut hood vents and took out the washer fluid box and cut the sheet metal so cold air could come straight up into the cone filter. The truck pulls hard now from the line and the engine stays cool and you can hear the filter sucking in air like crazy at wot. Works way better than just the K&N CAI by itself... a Tru custom Ram Air setup. I'll add pics from under the hood ASAP!

Attached Images
 
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  #48  
Old 03-02-2013, 05:41 AM
Dmanns67 Dmanns67 is offline
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2009 SAAB BlazerOfTrails
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I like the setup. Where are the under the hood pics?
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