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P0410 Code

328K views 622 replies 163 participants last post by  darksurfer954 
#1 ·
Ok before getting yelled at, I cant search I dont have enough posts...

I have tried a few things as suggested on this forum (as someone was kind enough to search the forums and give me a few threads to look at):

1.) cleaned throttle body
2.) Pulled off check valve (pass side of engine) and cleaned it
3.) I tested the check valve -- Pulled off hose on cold start (could hear valve open and close) but i did not get any pressure off the hose

does this indicate that the air pump is shot? if so does anyone have a picture or a general location of where to look to get at this thing and maybe clean it or check the voltage / resistance going in?

I ask because I have been dealing with this for a couple of weeks and my inspection is over due, quality NYS policies say that my SES light cannot be on even though the truck is fully functional cept for some global warming issues xD
 
#10 ·
Hello, I replaced the alternator and battery in my 2002 Trailblazer and it still won't start, any ideas what it could be? I'd appreciate any feedback on this matter. Thanks.:thx
thanks for hijacking my thread, but starter motor (fuse first) would be my first check


quirno thank you, do you know how to test to see if the signal part is working? I am starting to think that its the air pump itself, If the check valve is replaced should the light go out immediately? if so I guess I can go to the dealership and pick one up and if it doesnt go out just return it and get the pump.
 
#12 ·
The service engine light will not go out on it's own. You have to reset it. Best way is disconnect the negative battery terminal. The light will go out. Then you have to drive 50 to 100 miles before the on board monitor will reset. If the light comes back on the problem didn't go away..
 
#13 ·
Well I should say I finally beat the computer I am going to start a new thread in where I detail the 410 code and how to fully diagnose the problem. To those that say: replace the check valve and it does it, would be wrong!

It was the relay that is mounted next to the pump that caused my code.
 
#15 ·
Just know that diagnosing this is time consuming since the "system" is only active for a few seconds on cold start.

for now:
1.) wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. Disconnect the hose from check valve (located passenger side--the transmission dip stick is attached to the bolts that hold it to the block). Start the truck, you should hear a nasty sound for about 30 seconds to a minute. If you don't its your check valve.
1a.) If it is your check valve, you can try to clean it. Get some throttle body cleaner, remove the check valve spray thouroughly (I did it a couple of times to get all the carbon and rust out) and let dry reinstall and follow above instructions. If no go replace check valve

2.) wait for your car to be "cold" or 4 hours. remove the fattest hose from the underside of air intake hose (I think thats where it is, I have a CAI so Its hard to know where it is exactly OEM) and from the check valve. Have someone else start the truck. Feel the hoses, you should feel sucking and blowing (I can't remember which is supposed to blow / suck) If you don't feel anything then its the pump (maybe -- read further)
2a.) check fuses there are about 3 in the manual listed for air pump (if bad fuse replace and retest, make sure to check the fuses after to make sure that the pump isnt blowing fuses)
2b.) Locate the air pump its driver side mid car just behind the cross member for the frame. There are two wiring harnesess one that goes into the relay (grey box) and one that has two fat wires (thats the power plug for the pump.) disconnect that one, wait for cold start and start truck while having a multimeter attached set on DC mode. If you get a reading of 0 then replace the relay. if you get power 12-15 volts replace the motor.
3.) If both the check valve and the pump are testing out ok it could be a clogged hose.

Hopefully that was helpful I will try to get some pictures of the parts and post this in a clean thread
 
#16 ·
Secondary air injection (P0410)

I went through this already. The Dealer wanted to replace all of the system for about $800. The local shop wanted about $600. There are only 3 parts to this system, Check Valve ($125), Air Pump ($280) and Relay ($50). On a cold start, you should hear a high pitched whine for about 60 seconds. That would be the air pump doing its job. It is easier to hear with the door open because it is right under your butt. If you don't hear it, check the relay. Mine was apparently hit with road debris and by letting it go for so long (because I wasn't due for inspection), it caused the check valve to seize. You can check the air pump by disconnecting the wire harness plugs and the 2 hoses (they have a plastic ring that you squeeze together to release them), unbolting the bracket and removing the pump assy. Then using heavy guage test leads, momentarily connect it to the battery to see if it runs (WARNING: the air pump draws alot of current and is very tourqey, so don't be surprised by the spark AND the movement by the pump. The SES light WILL turn off by itself after 3 or 4 cold start cycles.

Lots of luck,
Rheasdad

PS Make sure you check the status of the I/M monitors. If they are all not at go status, you will fail inspection, even though there is no SES light. The catalyst one takes the longest to set.
 
#17 ·
P0410 DTC, Secondary Air Injection

First off, a big huge thank-you to Rheasdad for the step by step diagnostics on this. I owe you a cold one pal. And thanks to the rest of you for your information as well. I found this site researching a P0410 DTC and how to correct it, and found everything I needed. My issue wound up being the relay (GM part# 15319851) just forward of the Air Pump under the drivers side, NOT the relay inside the fuse panel under the hood. Total cost was just under $40...from a dealership no less. Probably could have gotten it cheaper if I was willing to wait, but I just wanted the Envoy fixed. Again thanks to all who contribute to this site. Good job!
 
#20 ·
Great diognostics, thanks

Had service engine PO410. Checked fuses and relay. Found solenoid valve by locating transmission dip stick bracket, disconnected hose at valve by squeezing lock ring an pulling, disconnected larger air pump hose at bottom of air intake same way. Waited until truck was cool, started truck and comfirmed good suction and discharge at open hoses (air pump works). No noise coming from disconnected sol. valve.

Removed valve, connected to 12V at battery and had no movement of plunger. Removed 3 screws and seperated valve body. Cleaned it up and broke disc loose. Confirmed operation w 12V at battery. Reinstalled.

Thanks again. Probably saved me five hundred.
 
#22 ·
Air Pump

If you take the hose off the air solenoid valve and the other hose from the pump off the intake to the air breather (about 1 to 1/14" hose) you will have the suction and discharge from the secondary air pump disconnected. The pump only runs from a cold start so start the truck and see if you have suction from one hose and discharge from the other. If you do, your air pump is OK. If you hear loud engine noise out of the solenoid, your solenoid is OK. If the pump doesn't run, it could be the pump or sensors/electrical powering the pump.
 
#27 ·
parts4chevys.com has it listed as a check valve. $128 list. $80 for you.

Oddly enough, Advance Auto doesn't have it on their web site either. Nor Autozone or Autowarehouse. Hmmmm, beginning to think it's a dealer-only item. Sigh....

There's one on Ebay for $90, but the vendor is a lying S.O.S.

Part number on this is #12583486, The AC-Delco # for this is #214-1683. (The AC-Delco number is for reference only our)

The dealship price on these Air Check Valves are $280.00, These are at an awesome price especially for OEM not Aftermarkets or copies.




OEHQ.com says that AC-Delco part number has been replaced by 214-2151, GM part number 12619110, but I'm not sure I believe that without more evidence because parts4chevys.com has that listed for 50% higher price, and I can't find out where it's used.
 
#29 ·
I just had this problem on my truck and didn't have to replace a single part. The power wire to the relay mounted next to the air pump had apparently rubbed against something because it was broken in two and slightly corroded from the salting of the roads here in PA. before you buy any dealer parts, spend some time testing everything. pull the parts off and check them for function. also....if you do need parts, call several dealers. i had priced both the valve and pump and dealer prices WILL vary. i could have saved quite a bit of money if i needed them by driving about 10 more minutes to a dealer than the one around the corner.
 
#31 ·
I pulled the hose off of the check valve. Started the engine and I didn't hear any noise from it, just the whining from the pump, that stared a few weeks ago. I changed the valve yesterday, started it with the hose still off and could hear the sucking noise talked about way back in this thread. I put everything back together and on a cold start today I can still hear the pump whining for about a minute, and the check engine light is still on.
I'm assuming the pump is working because I can hear it, and I have a new check valve. Now what?

:bonk:
 
#32 ·
Clearing the Check Engine Light requires three consecutive ignition cycles that the pump test runs and doesn't fail. Or a scan tool that can reset it manually.

Many codes are like this - it just takes a while to convince the car it's truly fixed and not just a temporary cure.
 
#38 ·
after seeing what all this secondary air injection system did, i really don't know the harm of letting it go. but like said earlier, inspection won't pass with the SES light on. the only other thing i see being an issue is that with your SES light on, you won't know if you ever have other codes coming up. i let mine go for about 8 weeks and at the same time my thermostat went bad and i didn't know it because i thought the only reason i had the SES light on was for my air injection.
 
#41 ·
So you had two or more problems, not just the check valve.

Pull the hose off the check valve at a cold start and make sure you still get air flow out the hose from the pump and hear exhaust noises from the check valve.

Reassemble it, then on the next cold start, make sure you can hear the pump running, and it goes off in less than 20 seconds (not a minute).

If it fails to go off in 20 seconds, then the airflow from the pump is not accomplishing its job of getting the Heated O2 sensor to reduce its output voltage 150mV or more. Could be a bad O2 sensor.

The shop manual says that intermittent codes can be caused by

Low pump/system airflow
Excessive exhaust backpressure
Pinched or leaky hoses on the input or output of the pump
Low voltage delivered to the pump from a deteriorating relay or bad wiring
Water or debris injected into the pump
 
#42 ·
p0410

I'm having the same problems as everyone else on this thread('05 straight six). I have a question. How do you go about checking the "check valve" to ensure it's operating correctly?
Thus far I've pulled the check valve and opened it up (3 phillips head screws) only to find it seems to actuate with an electric solenoid. Some have said they have dismantled it and ensured it wasn't frozen up.
I've cold started and checked the suck and blow sides of the pump and that seems to be right.
I'm going to check the 3 (why 3!) fuses/relay's in the fuse block today and if that's ok I don't know where to go.
For everyone out there having to do this it seems to me it's much easier to pull the air box/intake runner off to get to this damn thing. gm did do one thing nice when they put the pinch release air hoses on! I'm getting so good I can dismantle and reassemble in less than 10 minutes!!!

Thanks in advance for all your help. Haven't been here for awhile nice to see some of the same old faces...
 
#43 ·
p0410

Bump.
I'm having the same problems as everyone else on this thread('05 straight six). I have a question. How do you go about checking the "check valve" to ensure it's operating correctly?
Thus far I've pulled the check valve and opened it up (3 phillips head screws) only to find it seems to actuate with an electric solenoid. Some have said they have dismantled it and ensured it wasn't frozen up.
I've cold started and checked the suck and blow sides of the pump and that seems to be right.
I'm going to check the 3 (why 3!) fuses/relay's in the fuse block today and if that's ok I don't know where to go.
For everyone out there having to do this it seems to me it's much easier to pull the air box/intake runner off to get to this damn thing. gm did do one thing nice when they put the pinch release air hoses on! I'm getting so good I can dismantle and reassemble in less than 10 minutes!!!

Thanks in advance for all your help. Haven't been here for awhile nice to see some of the same old faces...
 
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