Ok before getting yelled at, I cant search I dont have enough posts...
I have tried a few things as suggested on this forum (as someone was kind enough to search the forums and give me a few threads to look at):
1.) cleaned throttle body
2.) Pulled off check valve (pass side of engine) and cleaned it
3.) I tested the check valve -- Pulled off hose on cold start (could hear valve open and close) but i did not get any pressure off the hose
does this indicate that the air pump is shot? if so does anyone have a picture or a general location of where to look to get at this thing and maybe clean it or check the voltage / resistance going in?
I ask because I have been dealing with this for a couple of weeks and my inspection is over due, quality NYS policies say that my SES light cannot be on even though the truck is fully functional cept for some global warming issues xD
Long story short... I looked closer and found that the back end of the pump was completely blown off. I got lucky and just happened to see it wedged between the frame rail and the bracket. I would have been really confused as to why it wasn't working properly since it powered up when I jumped the 2 power leads. So new pump it is. I'll get the relay as well. Can someone clarify for me the difference between the 3 different style/price(s) of pump on the RockAuto site?
owner says 2 shops say plugged convertor , car slows down after 5 minutes running time and she says she thought it was transmission as it wouldnt rev high enough to shift to next gear. has a code 410 code any ideas? it could be bad fuel pump or filter i guess
After much :coffee of this forum, I decided to tackle my own diagnostic of the dreaded p0410 code saturday night...
-Checked fuses, good
-Disconnected hoses from valve, cold start for under 40 seconds, no valve noise and no suction or blowing from pump :ugh:
-Took off valve, disassembled, cleaned with WD40 and jumped with 12v source, no luck :sadcry:
-Disconnected hoses from pump, dry as a bone, no water in pump. :yes:
-Checked hoses for clogs, none
-Jumped pump with 12v source, sound of motor, but no air movement
-Used voltmeter on harness plugs 38 and 85 (i think) and had a 12v signal until 30 seconds passed! :excited:
-Relay looks fine, no discoloration or corrosion
From this, I gathered the valve was first to go from (a lot) of carbon buildup... then pump failed when it ran constantly (or never ran?? <--- still not sure on that).
Ordered ACDelco valve w/gasket and pump form Amazon, shipped in two days for $228.... LESS than AutoZone wanted for some no-name, rebuilt pump ALONE. The valve through them would have been another $106!!!
I'll update once these parts are on and :x .... (whoa, I can't jinx myself!!)
I hereby claim my dreaded p0410 code is defeated by TKO by this thread...
After replacing the bad valve and pump on Tuesday evening, the check engine light reset itself on Wednesday after a couple cold start-ups. It remained off the rest of the week (with extra cold starts- some under 40 seconds and others minutes- during random times in the early morning and late-night).
Took the trailblazer this morning to get emissions tested and she passed :woot:
Thank you Chunk351 for your amazing "how-to" instructions and the rest of you for your specific case details to troubleshoot other possibilities.
Just my testimonial. I got here because I also had this same code on my truck few years ago. Looked online. Learned a lot from forums. Confidence rose and I took myself out there at my truck and started pulling those air pump hoses and behold, lots of WATER! Since the air check valve was in the mix of possible causes of concern I unbolted it and found a little bit of water,rust and crud inside. I cleaned it but after driving it like that the code reappeared(bummer). I knew the pump was working and the relay just because it runs. So I figured a new air pump check valve would certainly fix it. After I replaced it, I never saw the code again and its been years since. Knowledge is power. After that shenanigan, I can honestly say I understand emissions systems much more.
Amazing that 60 pages of this thread has accumulated just on this topic. Yet people still have questions on the same thing that's been figured out. But all is well. This is my first post on any internet forum.
Just my testimonial. I got here because I also had this same code on my truck few years ago. Looked online. Learned a lot from forums. Confidence rose and I took myself out there at my truck and started pulling those air pump hoses and behold, lots of WATER.
I have replaced the check valve on my Trailblazer and a few of my friends Trailblazers. If there was water in the system it has always been because of a bad check valve. I also had to replace my air pump. It worked but did not pump much air. This tread was a big help.
Check engine light came on, took my 2006 Envoy to the dealer. They want $800 to replace the 1) secondary air injection pump and 2) check valve. Parts and labor.
The thing is, I am planning on buying a new GMC real soon. I need 2-3 months to research and find a good deal. Can I just opt to not replace these two parts and keep driving the car for another 3 months or so?
I don't have emissions tests in my state. I drive it about 75 miles/week, no interstate driving.
You should be fine, my wife drove hers for a couple months once I realized what the code was... The valve and pump only come on to recycle cold exhaust on cold starts for emissions purposes... should not harm the engine in any way. Although ur carbon footprint will increase by .01% (not a real statistic, just sarcasm).
Ok, so had the p401 code which seems most closely related to this thread. The pump comes on for about 30 seconds on any cold start even if the outside temp is in the 90's.....used to never hear the pump at all, even for the 3 yrs we had it up in Chicago.......so, ran the tests the check valve was completely seized so I ordered the part off amazon and got the switch (right next to pump) in a package deal for about 140.00 total......replaced them both.....and reset the code......now 2 weeks later no new code has been discovered.....HOWEVER....the pump runs loud as usuall for about 30-40 seconds on every cold start........
Any ideas? I don't believe I should hear the pump every single time I start the vehicle after its been sitting for a couple of hours......
Also I replaced the uptake? O2 sensor about 6 mo ago (the one you can get at from the hood, passenger side) could this o2 sensor be bad?
Any ideas or suggestions would be greaatly appreciated.....
Just replaced my check valve yesterday with the awesome help and advice on this thread. 24 hours later and no more SEL! Part was VERY simple to replace and took me about 30 minutes (with very limited mechanical experience and very basic tools)!
Bought the valve on Amazon from AC Delco with a new gasket for about $63.00 with free shipping!
Thanks to all the pages of thread, I had decided that the check valve was the culprit. After a quick stop in the parts store, 2 bolts, 2 hose connections and one electrical connector I had the new part installed with ease.
As discussed here and like clockwork- I did 3 cold starts and the SES light immediately went off (after about a 2 year off and on visit).
Still having issues after reading the several pages
Hello,
I thought I would chime in on here and post some pictures of my obd reader. Can someone tell me if my upstream o2 is bad according to these reading and also does anything else look out of the normal. I have the P0410 code but was wondering if I need to replace both the air pump and solenoid switch.
I removed the tubes at the pump and a bunch of water came out of both. I get air coming out of the one tube and what sounds like an exhaust noise. This stays on all the time. (i think the solenoid is stuck open due to this and the water)
On a cold start I do not hear the pump whining at all. I still have to check the fuses again but last time i checked they were fine. I also will check for power at the pump on a cold start. Take a look at my pictures and see if anything stands out. Thanks.
PS i am not hijacking this thread just figure we dont need multiple thread for the same issue.
You need a new solenoid. It is stuck open and that is why there is water in the pump. If your air pump runs all the time, you probably also need a new relay. Someone else will have to comment on the o2 readings.
I've read all 61 pages of this thread and have learned an awful lot. I have had the 410 code for a while, but until reading this thread did not have a clue where to start solving the puzzle. I found a bad check valve and replaced it. I now have the loud exhaust sound from the valve upon cold start with the hose disconnected, which indicates the valve now operates normally. I found no water in the pump hoses and bench checked the pump-OK. All of the solenoids and relays check ok and when the brown wire from the relay near the pump is grounded, the pump runs. I still have the code and the pump does not run on cold start. I have even removed the connector from the PCM and grounded pin 44 and the pump runs. To me that indicates the PCM is not commanding the pump to run. Has anyone got any other ideas?
After reading 61 pages, I believe I have a handle on correcting the P0410 code. Still have other codes to deal with. Roadie was extremely helpful in this thread. Under his name, it says No Longer With Us. What exactly does that mean?
I hear my pump run on start up for about 30sec. I just started getting this p0410 code a week ago. should i start with the check valve as my first place to diagnose the problem?
I have just changed the air pump ,no problems after that but I have a question this is the second one in 3 years and they always fail because of water ,so how can I prevent from going bad again because of water specially if it rains a lot ?
I've been working on this problem and am replacing the check valve. I have an 04 trailblazer. Anyone know why the electrical connector on the check valve has 5 pins? According to the schematics Ive seen on this thread there appear to be only two wires.
I got a check engine light and after I used a scan tool it gave me a P0411 code as well as no SAI pressure during cold startup. After doing some research I did all the usual. Pulled the hose on the SAI valve and it was clean and dry. Checked continuity on the fuses and they were good. Got underneath the car, pulled the hoses on the air pump and they were clean and dry. Then I pulled the harness off the relay and water poured out. Bingo.
Unbolted the old relay and tested it. Applied 12V to the small leads and it clicked. Checked continuity on the large leads and it failed. Relay was bad.
Ordered a new relay from Amazon. Applied heat with a heat gun to dry out all the water in the harness. Installed new relay. Reset battery.
Heard the SAI pump run on cold startup. Check engine light hasn't come back.
Long thread, but can someone tell me exactly where the RELAY is for the air injection valve ? I know where the relay is for the pump, and have replaced that. I can't seem to find it located in fuse box under the hood. Have a 2008 L6 engine. If it's in that fuse box, which number is it? and does it have a fuse associated with it also? Thanks
Long thread, but can someone tell me exactly where the RELAY is for the air injection valve ? I know where the relay is for the pump, and have replaced that. I can't seem to find it located in fuse box under the hood. Have a 2008 L6 engine. If it's in that fuse box, which number is it? and does it have a fuse associated with it also? Thanks
Not sure. As far as I know its either the relay or the pump itself. If water is in there, the cold winter temperatures can cause the water to freeze and damage the pump or at least prevent it from spinning. I would wait at least until it warms up above freezing and check it then. And pull the hoses off the pump to drain any water.
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