How to change Front Wheel Bearing.... (with Pics) - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum



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OEM Issues OEM Repairs & Problems

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  #1  
Old 07-30-2009, 05:15 AM
eeehabt's Avatar
eeehabt eeehabt is offline
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How to change Front Wheel Bearing.... (with Pics)

Hi all,

Yesterday I changed the Front Wheel Bearing of my truck. I took photos of the process for all to benefit from.

Photo 1:
Loosen the axle and the wheel nuts. Jack the truck up.

Photo 2:
Secure the rear wheel by placing the wheel locks behind and in front of it. Wheel locks come along with every truck.

Photo 3:
Remove the two bolts that hold the Brake assembly. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 4 (2 photos):
Free the ABS sensor cable from all its mounting points and unplug it.

Photo 5:
Take the Brake Assembly off. Secure it in a way that protects the brake hose from damage.

Photo 6:
Hold the Brake Disc at the points shown and pull it out the hub. Careful not to touch the soft surface just to keep it clean and grease free.

Photo 7:
The bolts that hold the hub containing the bearing.

Photo 8A:
Remove the two bolts first. Then, turn the steering wheel all the way right to reach the third bolt. Make sure that you start the engine every time you turn the steering wheel in order not to damage the steering rack assembly.

Photo 8B:
The location of the third bolt that holds the hub. You can use closed end wrenches or sockets. I loosen and tighten with the first and remove with an automatic wrench. (The shoe has nothing to do with the process).

Photo 9:
Place a nut on a wheel bolt and gently hammer it out. This is if you want to keep the bolts for future use as they get damaged easily especially when you don't remove them for a long period of time, like a year or more, or when your bad luck takes to a lousy craftsman who damages them for you.
By the way, using the truck with one of the nuts lost damages the wheel ring and causes lack of track control.

Photo 10:
Squeeze a regular screwdriver at the point shown with arrows and pull the bearing out. Installation is the reverse but don't forget to place the big O ring on the hub before installing it.

Photo 11:
To install a bolt back in the hub, make sure that you support the hub with a long socket to prevent bending it when you hammer the bolt in. It's clear in the photo. (You can use a hydraulic press if available)

Photo 12:
In order not to end up with lost bolts or nuts, or forgotten to return ones, I advise that you get yourselves a magnetic plate like the one shown here. it holds your bolts and nuts tight even if you work under the truck and you mount it on the chassis face down. Mine is Toptools brand. It's very cheap.
The other arrow shows where you should keep the wheel while working. This location prevents damage to the truck if the jack fails to hold it and in case it slips or falls.

That's all for now. It was a very easy thing to do.
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2009, 02:59 PM
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eeehabt eeehabt is offline
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Any comments???
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  #3  
Old 07-31-2009, 03:07 PM
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I haven't done it on this particular vehicle, but it sounds about right for the ones I have done...

Good job!

Mike
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  #4  
Old 07-31-2009, 06:18 PM
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wardak33 wardak33 is offline
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Nice Write-up! I could've used this a year ago.. very helpful, THANKS!!
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  #5  
Old 08-01-2009, 09:53 AM
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Nice write-up. Thank you for your time and information.-Mike
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  #6  
Old 08-01-2009, 10:26 AM
Macatowa Macatowa is offline
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Wheel Bearing

Very good write up!

I curious how long they last? I have 161,000 miles on mine and still good, however I know they don't last forever.

These Trucks are amazing! I have and no mechanical failures in my 7 yrs of ownership other than the fan clutch at 115k and a few leaky seals on the 4wd.
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  #7  
Old 08-01-2009, 12:07 PM
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eeehabt eeehabt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macatowa View Post
Very good write up!

I curious how long they last? I have 161,000 miles on mine and still good, however I know they don't last forever.

These Trucks are amazing! I have and no mechanical failures in my 7 yrs of ownership other than the fan clutch at 115k and a few leaky seals on the 4wd.
You have been really lucky. The wheel bearing I changed lasted for a year and a half. At least I know the reasons for that. 1st, It wasn't genuine. 2nd I let a mechanic do it. You should thank God for your truck.
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  #8  
Old 08-01-2009, 05:37 PM
barron03 barron03 is offline
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2009, 05:46 PM
TSB TSB is offline
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Quote:
These Trucks are amazing
I've had to sink approx. $5000 into mine to keep it on the road and I'm just in the 90k's. No off-roading, no towing, no neglect, no abuse. This is my second one too. I traded out of the first at 35K, so count your blessings.


Getting back to the subject... I just replaced one of my front wheel bearings. It was a very easy job. I would venture to say anyone can successfully do this, at least on a 2wd. I bought a $63/free shipping bearing from ebay. As easy as it is to change, I don't mind if I have to do it again. I could do it 3 times for the price of a Timken from R.A. and 5 times for the price of OEM. I have a couple thousand miles and so far, so good.

1 question I have for you who have done it, is about the ABS sensor well. My original had grease in the cavity where the ABS sensor inserts. It was in all of the gear-teeth (sensor contact points) and seemed pretty heavy throughout the cavity. My new one was clean and had no grease. At first I thought that was the first sign of cheap, ebay construction-no grease. But since it is working well, I now think the grease in my original was not supposed to be there and was the result of the failed bearing.

Did anybody take note of this part of their's? Which way is it supposed to be? Grease or no grease?
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2009, 06:02 PM
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SBUBandit SBUBandit is offline
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Nice write-up, the only thing that would make it even better is adding in what size sockets each of the bolts took, but very well done. I just put new wheel bearings on my 95 grand am this past weekend. They were 15 years old and original. Much quieter now.
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